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Old Mar 10, 2001 | 10:36 PM
  #1  
buddman91rs's Avatar
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From: Niceville, Fl USA
torque

ok i know about adding hp, i want to know haow to add torque...not a little bit of torque but buy-new-seat-covers-cause-your-friend-****-his-pants kinda torque(besides gears and torque converters)

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1991 RS LO3
mods: 14" chrome air cleaner, straight-piped after cat exhaust with one chrome dual tip on the left side.
future mods: headers, removing smog equipment, and as many cheap mods as i can find
aol s/n: budman8503

GONE MUSTANG HUNTING.......
BACK IN 10 SECONDS
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Old Mar 10, 2001 | 11:12 PM
  #2  
IROCZTWENTYGR8's Avatar
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From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
U listed torque converter, thats what I said, but I just noticed that. Do u have 1??

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Looking For:

87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited March 10, 2001).]
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Old Mar 10, 2001 | 11:19 PM
  #3  
The ODB's Avatar
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From: Belleville, IL USA
Increase the stroke on your crankshaft, and increase the density of your intake charge.

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Old Mar 10, 2001 | 11:32 PM
  #4  
88 350 tpi formula's Avatar
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From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
supercharg it or get a really strong bottom end and spray the hell out of it then buy new seats because you just did a first and second on them
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Old Mar 10, 2001 | 11:48 PM
  #5  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The only way you'll get that much extra torque to really feel the huge difference is gears, torque converter and stroking the engine. Since those options are not what you're looking for then put on a nitrous kit. All the bolt-on stuff in the world won't give you the same kick as any of the above items.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 07:52 AM
  #6  
RCR's Avatar
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From: Shelby Twp., Mi., USA
Car: '84 Fiero ('01 GA interior)
Engine: '96 4.0 Aurora
Transmission: '96 4T80E
BIG BLOCK!!!
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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 10:56 AM
  #7  
D_Amlee's Avatar
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From: Oklahoma City, USA
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: Yes
Transmission: That, too.
So far, I agree with the above posts. If you are looking for cheap bolt on methods of gaining torque, you won't find it. Many of the most common easy bolt on mods only help performance at upper rpm levels. I will also toss in my .02 for a new camshaft as a way to increase torque. A high lift cam with a short duration will make more torque than you can stand. Most guys who swap cams go for the longer duration grinds, with 210 to 230 degrees of duration. Currently, I am running a roller cam with .500 lift but only 206 degrees of duration @ .050. This causes extremely high dynamic compression ratios and very high levels of torque. Unfortunately, this also means the engine falls flat on its face above a certain rpm because the valve overlap is insufficient to properly develop high rpm air flow through the cylinders. It's a tradeoff situation, but if you want stump-pulling low end torque, this would definitely do it.

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89 IROC with lots o' stuff

-=ICON Motorsports=-

[This message has been edited by D_Amlee (edited March 11, 2001).]
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