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Oil pressure (or at least gauge)drops at idle!

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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 09:51 PM
  #1  
squirrelybird's Avatar
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From: Lutz, FL USA
Oil pressure (or at least gauge)drops at idle!

The oil pressure gauge has not worked since I bought my car...actually it seems like it works sometimes. Anyways, I just cleaned the sending unit/sensor thing (it had oil in it?)and it the gauge seemed to work--cool, right? Nope. At first it stayed steady, but I was watching it later and the needle would drop at idle and rise with throttle. I seem to remeber that to be a very bad thing...what does this mean?
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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 10:03 PM
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From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Oil pressure changes with RPMs. At idle it should be 20/25 psi. As RPMs increase, so should the oil pressure.
Anything aboe 10 psi at hot idle is okay,

10 psi for each 1000 rpms is a good rule of thumb.

Jake

------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 10:06 PM
  #3  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Jake's "rule of thumb" is an excellent one. It describes the engine's requirements for survival.

These cars usually do about 20-25 idling and 50-55 cruising. It is normal for it to fluctuate between these values. Above 2000 or so it should be 50ish, below that it drops with RPM.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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Old Mar 11, 2001 | 10:10 PM
  #4  
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From: Lutz, FL USA
I'll check tomorrow, but it seems like at idle it was dropping to nothing. So i'm probably okay? I thought i had heard it could be a blown gasket or something.
thanks guys
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Old Mar 12, 2001 | 08:50 AM
  #5  
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From: Adrian, Mi, USA
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
GM had some serious issues with faulty oil pressure sending units as well. If your gauge is very "bouncy", (won't give a stable reading), or, just drops to nothing at idle, First, check your pressure with a mechanical guage, screw it in where the sensor goes, if you have good pressure at idle, replace the sensor. End of problem.....

Have fun.
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Old Mar 12, 2001 | 09:42 AM
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From: NJ, USA
Car: 1991 GTA Convertible
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I agree with what all of you have said. There are also a few other things to check for. If you have changed your oil to a lighter weight, eg. form 10W-30 to 0W-30 or 10W-40 to 5W-30, that will give you a lower reading at idle especially after the motor has been warmed up.

It may also be a faulty sending unit, like ploegi said check with a mechanical guage first to make sure.

Another thing that may cause a low pressure reading is a faulty pick up screen in the oil pan. These have been KNOWN to fall off of the oil pump on all GM V-8's. They just seem to work their way off. One way to check is the next time you do your oil change, check to see if the pick up screen is laying at the bottom of the pan. Look through the drain plug hole with a flashlight to check. The pick up looks like a round plate with a screen on it and a bent tube coming out. If this is the case than that is the reason of having a low or no oil pressure at idle. The screen is not sitting in the oil for the pump to pick up. This is very noticeable while driving. When you come to a stop a the oil goes towards the front of the pan and starves the oil pump for oil, causing it to take in air, resulting in no oil pressure. When the oil comes back after the stop, the pressure will go back up but only minimally. When you drive along again the oil shifts to the rear of the pan, drowning the oil pump in oil, resulting in normal readings again.

The way to fix this is to remove the oil pan a and drill and tap a hole in the oil pump to where the pick up tube goes in. Put the pickup back in the pump and put a screw in the tapped hole to keep the tube tightly in place. Problem solved. Also tilt the pick up screen slightly downward towards the bottom of the pan.

------------------
1988 GTA 5.7L TPI Auto
355 ci. block, SLP Cold Air Intake w/ K&N, fully modified MAF Sensor, TPIS 52mm Throttle Body w/Air Foil, Fully Ported and Polished Plenum, Nikel-plated Ported SLP Siamesed Runners, Ported TPIS Big Mouth Intake Manifold, stock heads w/ 1.52 Comp Cams Self-aligning Roller Rockers, TPIS ZZ-9 Roller Camshaft, TPIS Valve Springs, Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain, TPIS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Ford Motorsports SVO 30 lb/hr Fuel Injectors, MSD 6AL, Taylor 10mm Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD Shift Light, March Underdrive Pulleys, 6 3/4" Vibratech Streetdamper, TPIS Level 4 PROM, 160 T-stat, Low Temp. Fan Switch, Stock Distributor w/ Bronze Gear, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, Random Technologies High Flow Cat., Adjustable Borla Cat Back Exhaust, Flow Tech Pre-Cat 3" Exhaust Cut Off, ZR1 Heated O2 Sensor, Level 10 PTS-3 700R4 Trans, B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter, B&M Trans Cooler, TCI Aluminum Finned Trans Pan, Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, 3" Balanced Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Richmond Gears, Auburn Pro-Series Differential, Aluminum Differential Cover w/ Main Cap Preloads, BF Goodrich Drag Radials 255/50 R16, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, Hotchkis Panhard Rod, Hotchkis Tie Rod Adjuster Sleeves, Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks and Struts, 1LE Springs, Energy Suspension Polyeurethane Bushings, Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors, Global West Steering Box Brace, HP Motorsports 3 Point Strut Tower Brace

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