After reading the other post regarding "thermostats" I've decided to post my own question.
Look at my setup. I run a basically stock 305 TPI with a paxton 10lber. I run a 170degree thermostat that usually runs around 174-176 degrees. I do notice a lot of knock retard. Should I go to a hotter t-stat, or even back to stock?

I always thought colder temps meant less detonation.

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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton SN92 polished kit, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5200rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,stock chip,Ford SVO 24# injectors,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

TF,

After the coolant reaches 57°C (153°F) the knock retard rates are the same all the way up to infinity and beyond. One possible explanation for your excessive retard is that the EGR won't operate at full capacity until the coolant reaches 176°F. EGR gasses reduce the combustion chamber temperature and the resultant tendency for detonation. Even though the coolant might be a little cooler with a lower temperature stat, the heads are the last thing to be cooled before the coolant hits the radiator, so are the hottest part of the engine. And even the coolant can't leach all of the heat out of the cahmbers through a quarter inch of cast iron. A little EGR can be a good thing.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
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Vader, this makes me wonder. I have been getting a reoccuring code 32 lately. Maybe these 2 incidents are related (knock retard and egr failure). I am thinking of going with a 180degree stat.
What do you think about that? 16degrees of knock retard is to much for me. Even when I was naturally aspriated, I recorded as much as 13*s retard.

Nice red T/A by the way. wheels go well with spoiler

[This message has been edited by theformula (edited March 12, 2001).]

 

anyone else?

 

Vader, probably didn't know that you were speaking in the context of WOT where the EGR is not functioning.

But the fact is, a colder motor (and I don't just mean H20 temp), I mean a fully warmed motor internally, has looser tolerances which seem to cause more knock.

Hook up your scan tool when the engine is cold and give it a little gas (find a nice hill actually); you will notice a lot more incidence of knock occurring. After 15 minutes of running, stop the engine and let it sit for 5 mintues. Now do the same test, adn you'll notice a lot less knock.

Cold motors are more prone to knock.