I discovered this week my heater core went out.. (Steamed windows, puddle on pass. side floor).. I took the old one out and put the new one from autozone in.. Put some new hose clamps on.. The black plastic box cracked a little bit when i was putting the case back on.. I connected the hoses back up and refilled my radiator.. I thought I did everything right and was quite pleased that it took less than 5 hours...

I take the car out for a drive and the "new" heater core from autozone LEAKS WORSE THAN THE OLD ONE DID!!! There is at least an inch of water on the floor of the passenger side...

What could I have possibly done wrong? If it were a bad hose, wouldn't the puddle be on the outside of the car and not on the inside?? BTW, THis is on a 92 firebird 305 tbi..

I don't have time at all this week to take the thing apart again and redo the install, but what could I have done wrong?? Does anyone think I got a defective heater core? If thats the case I'm going to raise hell when I come in to return it... I worked almost all damn day and it's still freaking broken...

Somebody please help...

 

You could bypass the heater core until you find the problem, that would at least let you drive it.

I haven't had to change a heater core yet, so my insider tips on this topic are limited.

Michael Bangert
'88 IROC

[This message has been edited by tregnab (edited March 25, 2001).]

 

Sorry to hear about your problem with the heater core. The autozone and advanced auto cores are like 50/50 in chances of working. I'm serious, i know a manager pretty well at the local Advance auto here. He has put 4 of those in his escort! I just put one in my old 91RS and it went in and worked luckily. Thats why they say to pressure test them before putting them in. Good thing to do when putting one in is to fill it with water and let it sit on the workbench while your stripping the car apart to get the old one out. It will give you an idea if the core will leak. Another thing is, when your putting the core in the two holes that go into the engine bay you have to be careful not to bend those two pipes that enter and exit the heater core! if you bend or pry on them they tend to make leaks, the pipes are very fragile and something if they are bent on the ends a little they won't allow for the heater hoses to tighten very well(that would more generally cause a leak outside of the car).

I actually have a heater core leak in my IROC right now. Going to change it soon hopefully. May just unhook the heater hoses temporarily.


Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

[This message has been edited by leirch (edited March 25, 2001).]

 

I changed my core in my 86 T/A about 2 months ago. Bought an Autozone core for $18.00.
Took me 1 hour to replace the core.
I just went in from the bottom of the passenger side hush panel. The haynes book tells you to loosen the dash and center console. I didn't have to do any of that.

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Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, LG4 305, 5 Speed, CF DF Clutch,
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Leather 96 Camaro SS Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Alpine V12 Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.
Best ET: 14.94@91.67
High Speed Run: 157mph
WS6 Trans Am