Well I hit water today and was just wondering what kind of results anyone has had getting their blocks welded??

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

Paul,

I've welded several heads with nickel filler rod and had very good success. The filler has an affinity for the iron and alloys with it very well, creating a stronger area than the iron alone. I would consider the stresses created in the weld area, and possibly shot peen of thermally stress relieve a case casting that was welded. It's pretty easy to heat heads and allow them to cool to stabilize them before machining, but a complete cylinder case is quite a bit larger and a more complex casting.

I hope someone has more direct experience with this, but I suspect you can do it without major difficulties. I have welded a couple of John Deere two-holer case castings after they have been cracked on the jackets, but they don't see nearly the stress and RPM of the SBC.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Lay one layer of weld on then while cherry red, tap it with a fine pick hammer while it cools.... After it cools lay the next weld down and repeat....

If you just struck water and need more clearence, you might as well keep grinding now to give you more room for weld.

Use the nickel rod.... as prev mentioned

Tapping it with the hammer stress relieves the weld so it's less likely to crack (prob with cast) than a solid weld.

Keep on tapping it while red!!!!!!! It really does make a diff!

 

Joel, have you done this before?? Do you have the capabilities to do it?? If so would you be interested in helping me??

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

Yes, where i used to work sometimes the cases on speed reducers would get cracked during assembly. Instead of them swallowing the $2800 price tag, they would stick weld them with the 1/8 nickel rod just laying down a small amount then keep tapping dimples in it with the hammer, then repeat. After it's done you can't even tell after paint if done correctly. I have done this a couple times and never had a failure so far. An old welder there tought me the trick. I no longer work there and all I own at home is a small MIG and my somewhat busy schedule keeps me runnin, but someone in your area should be able to fix it. Try a small machine shop.

Another cast trick is if you have a crack in the casting, drill holes at the ends of the crack and grind it almost all the way through and do the above procedure. If done right the crack won't reappear.

Another option is to clean the water jacket the best you can and JB weld it real good(The opening is small right?)

Then get 'block filler' and fill it to the bottom of the freeze plug holes. This is a great mod to do anyway because:

1. It supports the cylinder walls and keeps them from flexing/wearing or in high hp apps breaking.

2. It slightly raises oil temperatures which promotes less frictional losses.

Doing this will not pose a cooling problem because most of the heat is in the first inch of the cylinder. Filling to the bottom of the plugs with the block level is known as a 'street' fill. You don't even have to fill it that much if the thought scares you. Hardcore racers (1/4 mi) fill them even more, but this isn't good for the street.

If you plan on looking into this option make sure the filler is ethlene glycol compatable. Some race formulas are only for water and the antifreeze will break them down.

This will give you double protection from a leak although some used jb weld for more punishing conditions and it lasted.

Hopefully this info helps you out, your situation really sucks. A lot of strokers are running the streets that went through the same problems.

Did you re-use the 5.7" connecting rods from the 350? The rod bolts take up quite a bit more clearence than aftermarket rods. I guess it doesn't matter now....

Good luck.

 

Yeah I reused the stock rods, I never anticipated this. I would love to hear from anyone else who has used block filler. I'm really starting to consider getting another block to avoid any headaches in the future, but who's to say I won't hit water the second time??

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.

 

i replied to your other post on this. peening doesn't hurt. cast is a lot easier to fix than most people think, good cast anyway. one thing to watch for is if the repaired area will need to be ground carbon tends to draw into the weld making it hard to machine, but this is less of a problem with engine blocks than some cheaper castings.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

Ede I think I've decided to just get another block. I rather not have to worry about the weld ever cracking or even worse coming off and getting into the case and doing some major damage. Chalk that one up to experience huh.

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


Attention Everyone!!! I will be changing my name on the message boards to HardcoreZ28 sometime in the near future. Just wanted to let everyone know.