Need to know how to bleed brakes for a 88 Formula with front disc and rear drums. Step by step procees is needed because I am a moron.

 

Easiest method without special tools requires 2 people. First make sure you have the right size sockets or bleeder wrenches for the bleeders on the calipers and drums. The bleeder is bigger on the drum, so don't worry when the one that worked on the caliper won't fit. These instructions assume you already have the car up on jack stands with all wheels removed. Also be sure you have plenty of fresh brake fluid. If you are switching from mineral based to synthetic, make sure you get ALL of the old fluid out, most synthetics are not compatible with mineral based fluids.

• Start with the wheel furthest from the reservoir, and work your way closer. (Left rear, right rear, left front, right front.)
• Make sure reservoir has plenty of fluid, and put cap back on it. (pumping of pedal can cause fluid to geyser up and spill over the edge if open)
• *optional- put length of small hose on bleeder so fluid flows through it and into container so you don't make a mess. At the least have a pan under the wheel you're working on to catch old fluid.
• With assistant in drivers seat, have them put pressure on brake pedal, open bleeder screw until assistant tells you the pedal has bottomed out. Close bleeder screw, have assistant release brake pressure, pump brakes a couple of times, and press and hold so you can open bleeder again. Make sure assistant never releases pedal while bleeder is open, you'll just suck air into the system, defeating the purpose.
• repeat until you see clean clear fluid *IMPORTANT* check and top off reservoir with fresh fluid to avoid sucking air into system.
• once you have clean fluid and no bubbles coming out of the wheel you are working on, tighten the bleeder screw, and move on to the next one until all are done.
• when all wheels are done, recheck fluid level, start car, and check pedal feel. If pedal feels good, you're done!

*EDIT: Make sure you immediately wipe up any brake fluid spilled on a painted surface. Brake fluid will eat through paint in a very short time.

[This message has been edited by Andy89RS (edited March 27, 2001).]

 

What Andy said sounds pretty good, but here's a few more bits of advice from someone who's been through break-bleeding-hell.

#1 Be careful when selecting a helper. Recruiting your mother to help you bleed the brakes is NOT a good idea. Believe me, I know.

#2 Keep the end of the hose immersed in brake fluid. This will ensure that you don't suck any air back into the lines if your helper accidentally lets the pedal up while the bleeder is open and forgets to mention it (thanks alot mom). Anyway, just put about 1 inch of clean brake fluid in the container that you are using to catch the fluid in, and put the bottom of the hose in the fluid. Also this way you can see the air coming out of the lines because it will bubble up through the fluid.

 

if you dont have a partner you can gravity bleed them, I ended up doing this since my mother was the only person around who could help at the time. Just open the bleeder and remove the lid from the master cylinder and let it flow, and add fluid to the master clyinder as it gets low. you can kinda tell when theres no air left cause if you look at the bleeder the fluid will come out in a clean stream when theres air in it, it will drip out. If your bleeding the whole system its gonna take awhile, I recomend a lawn chair and some beer.

------------------
89 Camaro Rs
-Stock Tbi 305 with a lot of damn miles
-Edelbrock Z28 TES Headers
-3 inch Catco High Flow Cat
-3 inch Edelbrock Catback
-14x3 Summit Open Element Air Cleaner

Stereo
-Pioneer DEH-P4100 cd player
-Polk Dx9 6x9s

79 Jeep Cj7

 

Unfortunately though, the gravity bleeding won't always work. Sometimes I have trouble getting one to bleed outthat way unless I pump the pedal a couple times first. I've done well with gravity bleeding, but I prefer to do the 2 person operation.

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand. (Man, those Fast-Burn heads sitting on it look good!)

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech