I was thinking about removing mine and was wondering what the downsides there were, if any (besides failing the emission test) to having no smog pump. Also, what kind of power could i expect from doing this? Thanks, Doug

 

I've read threads on this before, removing the pump doesn't really help your performance much, unless you're finnicky about removing weight from the car, or just want to get all the annoying hoses out of the way (reason why I did it)
Some have said that the cat. conv. can get clogged without the AIR going into it, but this can be fixed with a cat. delete or a hi-flowing cat. I've still got my old 4-bolt factory cat and the thing still flows fine, AIR was taken off years & years ago.
I'd say if this vehicle is your daily driver, don't bother if you've got emissions to worry about.

------------------
DR Stevens
Car #1: my ride
1984 TransAm
305HO(L69) 95K & counting
750 cfm Q-Jet reman. by Holley
K&N filter
700R4/Superior shift-kit
3.42 rear/3.73 blew up!!
underdrive pulleys
Accel HEI Super-Coil
180 stat/hi flow water
pump/Jet fan switch
dual snorkel /w/ hood louver
3" exhaust of some sort
partial emissions delete
Stock-appearing radio /w/
10-disc changer
Car #2: My wife's ride
1991 Firebird/Formula
305TBI(LO3) 99K & smoking
K&N air filter
Hypertech Thermomaster Chip
more engine mods later
400W amp /w/ 12" sub

 

This car is my daily driver. We dont have emmisions tests in Indiana yet, but who knows what the future holds. I wouldnt mind cleaning up the engine compartment though, and i am always scrapping for more horsepower. How much weight does removing the pump and AIR components save? Any other problems anyone has experienced with the AIR system out? Other suggestions? Thanks, Doug

------------------
1991 Z28, TPI 350; 50,000 miles
Fastchip; Jet Airfoil; K&N filters; Homemade ram-air; Borla Catback, 50% open; SLP intake runners; SLP Headers; PowerAid TB spacer; March underdrice pulleys; Accel Coil' Hypertech rotor & cap; Accel extreme 9000; NGK platnum plugs; TB coolant bypass; ported plenum.

 

I second eightTfourTA's advice.


------------------
'87 Trans Am:
(Engine)
305 TPI
160 Degree Thermostat
TB Bypass
Accel 300+ 8.8 Racing Wires
Accel Super Coil
Bosch Platinium Plugs
Custom Ram Air with K&N
(Stereo)
Kenwood Excelon

 

I do it on my cars just to have one less belt. It has never hurt anything. It's very easy to do.

 

I did it on my car and noticed a little difference. I mainly did it because one if the pipes broke and I didn't want to pay the dealer for a new one so I just took it all out. There is alot more room in the engine now. I've never regreted doing it. I'm glad that I did. I say that if you don't have emissions to worry about do it. All the little things add up.

------------------
88 iroc
LB9 305 tpi
k&N, flowmaster, ADS chip
160* thermostat
home made ram air
removed smog pump
TB bypass
ASCD big block hood

AIM - chris1roc

 

Looks like the only problem would be passing an emissions test. Any Free horsepower is worth having. Anyone else who has done this have a comment?

------------------
'91 Z28 50,000 miles:
K&N; Fastchip; Airfoil; Custom 'Ram-Air'; SLP Headers; Slp Runners; Borla Catback 50% open; Poweraid TB spacer; March underdrive pulleys; Accel Extreme 9000 wires, coil; Hypertech rotor, cap; NGK platinum plugs; manual fan switch; TB coolant bypass; Pirelli P7000 Z245/50/R16 all season tires; Energy suspention motor mounts.

 

I'm from IN as well and am searching for a way to get rid of my smog pump and AC. I've already removed all of the AC components, and rewired my radiator fans to come on at the same time. What I would really like to see is how the 1LE belt routing works, since that car did not have AC. It probably had a smog pump though... maybe not. Anyone know?

If anyone has pictures of a factory 1LE engine compartment that has the belt routing visible, I'd love to see it.



------------------
_ _____________ _
Michael Bangert
mbanger@iupui.edu

 

i bypasses the air and ac i went (starting at alt) over ac, down and under power steering, across and under crank, diagonally up and right over the water pump, then diagonally up and left over and around the tensioner back to the alt. i had to raise the bracket that holds the radiator hose up....to the next bolt up on the alt. i used a 650 K6 belt. gained a lil bit of mileage...a lil hp...and a LOT of engine clutter. im a happy man.

 

1LE cars had an A/C delete pulley. The pulley bolted into place where the A/C compressor went and the stock belt size and routing was maintained. You can still get the pulley from GM, though I do not know the part number. As far as I know they did have smog pumps.

As for removing the smog pump, you can get a smog pump delete pulley as well (p/n 10186167, costs about $40). Just like the A/C pulley, it bolts up into place where the smog pump was, and lets you keep the stock belt and routing. I had my smog pump removed and later added the smog pump delete pulley. To the untrained eye it looks stock.

 

What company was that delete pulley from? GM performance?

Thanks for all of the suggestions.. Did all of you remove the air tubes coming from the (headers) manufolds, or just plug them up with something.. or is this necessary? Parts that chilton's lists are the actual pump, the check valve, and the air control valve. Are these all the parts need to be removed? Thanks again, Doug

 

Both the A/C delete pulley and the smog pump delete pulley have GM part numbers, and should be available through any GM parts counter. The p/n I gave above for the smog pump delete pulley is a good number, that's what I used when I ordered mine. Wish I had the p/n for the A/C delete pulley, though if you go to a dealer tell them you want the A/C delete pulley for 1LE cars and they should be able to look it up.

You pretty much covered it on what you need to remove. If you are still using your stock exhaust manifolds you will need to get some pipe plugs (available from most hardware or nut&bolt stores) to plug the holes on them where the air tubes went. Or if you are getting headers you can just get some that don't have the air tubes on them. Either way you will also have to plug the hole on the catalytic converter where the air tube goes into it. I put a bolt in it and had an exhaust shop weld it shut.

 

thakns for the part numbers - i'll try it this weekend! Doug

------------------
'91 Z28 50,000 miles:
K&N; Fastchip; Airfoil; Custom 'Ram-Air'; SLP Headers; Slp Runners; Borla Catback 50% open; Poweraid TB spacer; March underdrive pulleys; Accel Extreme 9000 wires, coil; Hypertech rotor, cap; NGK platinum plugs; manual fan switch; TB coolant bypass; Pirelli P7000 Z245/50/R16 all season tires; Energy suspention motor mounts.

 

Doug,

I have removed from my car the air pump and hoses with no regrets. One of the surprises came at my last visit to e-check. Out of curiousity, I left my air pump off and went to have my car tested. The car passed with nowhere near the limit in any category : HC 19.5ppm out of 144.0ppm limit, CO 0.03% out of 0.92% limit, CO2 14.7%. Maybe the testing system was screwed up, or maybe a well taken care of/tuned car goes a long way.

Barry Izold
89 T/A, GTA
Modified 350/T-5

 

You could probably dump about 5-7 pounds, the pump isn't all that heavy. On a serpentine belt engine, there would probably be a little of a power increase since all the load is on that one belt; and it will clear up some space. IMHO, i'd complement the smog delete with some underdrive pulleys, make it worth your while.

------------------
DR Stevens
Car #1: my ride
1984 TransAm
305HO(L69) 95K & counting
750 cfm Q-Jet reman. by Holley
K&N filter
700R4/Superior shift-kit
3.42 rear/3.73 blew up!!
underdrive pulleys
Accel HEI Super-Coil
180 stat/hi flow water
pump/Jet fan switch
dual snorkel /w/ hood louver
3" exhaust of some sort
partial emissions delete
Stock-appearing radio /w/
10-disc changer
Car #2: My wife's ride
1991 Firebird/Formula
305TBI(LO3) 99K & smoking
K&N air filter
Hypertech Thermomaster Chip
more engine mods later
400W amp /w/ 12" sub

 

Ive already got the underdrive pulleys on... which reminds me, is that belt number correct on the tech page for march underdrive power and amp pulleys?

Doug

------------------
'91 Z28 50,000 miles:
K&N; Fastchip; Airfoil; Custom 'Ram-Air'; SLP Headers; Slp Runners; Borla Catback 50% open; Poweraid TB spacer; March underdrive pulleys; Accel Extreme 9000 wires, coil; Hypertech rotor, cap; NGK platinum plugs; manual fan switch; TB coolant bypass; Pirelli P7000 Z245/50/R16 all season tires; Energy suspention motor mounts.

 

The part # for the AC delete pulley should be 10055890.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

i guess there is a new part number for the smog pump pulley according to gmpartsdirect.com it wouldnt redirect my computer to it though. anyone know what this might be? Thanks, Doug

 

I'm too cheap to buy a $40.00 A.I.R. delete pulley. So I simply removed my A.I.R. pump any converted it into an idler pulley that looks exectly like a stock A.I.R. pump. It was suprisingly easy. I have pics, but I don't know how to post them. Basically all I did was dissemble the pump,and remove the vanes,and the parts that drive them.

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.poly everything,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad

 

Hmmm, interesting. I just got mine about 4 months ago using the part number I gave you. I got mine from Dal at Van Devere Olds. I gave him the part number and told him what I wanted and he knew what I was talking about. You might want to give him a try if you think you might not be able to get it from anywhere else. Their website is www.vandevere.com .

 

You can get the delete pulley at www.gmpartsdirect.com for about $33

------------------
We need Perry Mason

 

Ok.. ill check out my local dealer today. I did go to gmpartsdirect.com, and the number was wrong (old) for the smog pump pulley.

That is interesting about gutting out the actual pump. If it is really that easy, no need to spend the extra money on it.

Thanks everyone, Doug

 

Well, i finally got the darn thing off. The bottom bolt was stuck, but other than that it went smoothly. I used the longer belt instead of the pulley. To plug up the air tubes on my headers, i used bolts, liquid gasket, and hose clamps. Works pretty well. I figure i saved atleast 10 pounds & the compartment is much cleaner. Thanks for all of your help, Doug