Okay this summer right after school is out Im gonna pull my engine. Im 99% sure that I will ditch the computer, too. I have a good idea what to use for beefing up the block, but I still don't know what carb, cam, oir distributor to use. I want fair mileage (10+), a lopey-*** idle, and at least 300 HP.
Heres what i know I want:
Block: Stock, rebuilt .030 or .040 over.
Heads: Dart Iron Eagle 2.02/1.60 64cc
Pistons: Speed Pro Forged (dont know which set - one is 9.16 CR, the other is 10.92; which is better)
Bolts: ARP Engine Bolt Kit, ARP Head Bolts, ARP Connecting Rod Bolts, ARP Main Bolts
Crank: Stock
Connecting Rods: Stock (I cant find aftmkt 400 rods, they are 5.565")
Other: Hi-Vol oil pump, hi-flow water pump, ARP oil pump drive rod, Performer Intake

What type of carb and distributor should I use to top all this off? I will be using headers and true dual exhaust, no cats, with 2 straight pipes back to the mufflers, which will dump in front of the axle (simplicity and cost advantage). I will be using my 700R4, so I will need a carb that can accept a TV cable, and not to mention the power brakes. As for all the smog junk, its going in the garbage can.


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1983 Firebird
TH700R4 Auto
Small Block 400
LG4 ECM, Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc.
Soon to be non-computer.
Clarion Head Unit 45X4
2 Pioneer 400W 12" Subs
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is half an engine."

 

Use a Comp XE268H if you want it mild, or XE274H for a little more.

9.2 CCR is too low, 10.92 is too high. With iron heads you need to aim for 10.25 to 10.5, depending on the cam: more cam, use the higher CR.

Lose the HV oil pump. It is totally unnecessary for oiling, and actually harmful, in a stock bottom end situation. Use a M55 and a Mr Gasket #26 spring.

I'd recommend a Holley 750 CFM carb, like a 4779 or whatever the 750 in that series is; or maybe one of their Street Avenger line in a 750, or a Demon 750.

I have a Performer on my 400, it really isn't enough. There's a hood problem though. But if you can figure out a way to upgrade that, it would be a good idea. If you can't, use the XE268H cam, and scale the carb back to a Holley 6210.

For the dist, get a DUI or a MSD.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited April 04, 2001).]

 

Do yourself a favor and forget using the stock 400 connecting rods (5.5.6”). You want to use a 5.7” or even better, 6.0” rod. The Eagle SIR rods would be a good inexpensive choice. Many manufacturers have off the shelf 400 pistons ready for use with 5.7”/6.0” rods, so you won’t have to go with custom pistons.

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N/A 406, TPIS Miniram, 58mm TB, 30lbs injectors, Custom Ground Elgin Cam, Ported TFS heads, SLP 1-3/4", & DFI computer.
11.70@117mph

 

gm powder metal rods are cheap and strong, i'd use studs if i were replacing the bolts instead of bolts. do the oil pump like rb said. i'd be looking in a lunati catalog and not comp, but comp will work just fine for you.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

What about a Summit cam kit? My bud got one for his 65 Stang, and it works great. Plus its $80 + tax & shipping, lifters included. Also, what is an M55 pump? and what spring are you talking about? Sorry, this is my first engine buildup, im not very experienced here. Also, what type of hood problem is there? Clearance? Would it be possible to run a slim air cleaner?

Also, if I get longer rods, Ill need different pistons with the wrist pin higher, right?

Boy building up an engine takes alot of planning... you gotta build the whole thing in your head before you put in the first bolt.

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1983 Firebird
TH700R4 Auto
Small Block 400
LG4 ECM, Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc.
Soon to be non-computer.
Clarion Head Unit 45X4
2 Pioneer 400W 12" Subs
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is half an engine."

 

Hey, if one was to go with the 5.7 rods or the 6.0 rods would they have the clearance the block or anything?

 

I'd go with the name brand cam instead. For the pennies you save compared to the thousands that a motor rebuild will end up costing, you'll get the chance to get the right cam for your particular setup. All the big cam mfrs. have cams that will work well; what you;ll need is one with about 224° of intake .050" duration, with a bigger exhaust lobe, the smallest possible advertised duration for the .050", and the most lift possible, on 110° centers.

M55 is the Melling part # for the stock small block pump. the Mr. Gasket spring raises the pressure to 55-60 cruising hot. That's the combination I run in my 400.

Yes, clearance would be the hood issue. You can run a slim air cleaner but that defeats the whole purpose: any kind of a "drop-base" air cleaner will put the breather lid so close to the carb that the air will have to pass through a tiny slit around the top, and make a sharp 90° to go down into it.

Yes, if you change rod length you'll have to use special pistons. It has advantages though: with the longer rods, there's enough room between the back of the piston and the crank to put a large enough counterweight that it is no longer necessary to use an "unbalanced" balancer and flywheel. The regular 350 stuff can work. With a 400 block there are no clearance problems as long as you stay with the stock 400 stroke, the block is already properly designed for it.

Planning is everything!!

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I would stay away from summit, TRW, speedpro, wolverine and edelbrock cams. They don't do anything real inventive. They are just are real old designs that don't take advantage of any new tech.

You will find 300 hp can be obtained with stock intake and heads in most cases. If all your shooting for is good torque I would not worry about 6 inch rods. they will move the torque up the power band and they require some real lame oil control ring grooves. Get the lightest 5.7 I beam rod you can find. If you run 5.7 rods you will have to check the rod bolt clearance on pistons 2 and 6. The cam lobes get very close to those bolts. Or you can use an I beam rod that has a cap screw bolt and the problem is solved.


[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited April 05, 2001).]