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Halfway done with valve seals... report

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Old Apr 8, 2001 | 02:58 PM
  #1  
Kevin Irving's Avatar
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From: Norfolk, VA
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Halfway done with valve seals... report

First of all, thanks to Vader and the others who helped me figure out which seals to use. My neighbor and I finished the driver's side valve seals last night and I saw that the old seals had NO rubber left, it was just the shell of the seal running the stem. The plugs were pretty black (Bosch Plats) and I'm hoping it was because of the oil leaking down onto them. We've been pretty lucky so far, haven't lost any retainers and it doesn't sound like too much air is leaking past the valves.

One question though..... how do I know that I'm not pinching the top o-ring after I install the retainers and uncompress the spring? Is there any way to tell??

And one other thing, I've searched the archives and all I've found on setting valve lash is with the engine running. With the PITA it is to get the valve covers on and off and with all the emissions crap on the passenger side that has to be disconnected, this method just isn't feasible. I asked a mech friend of mine at the dealer and he said to just turn the pushrod with my fingers while I tighten the rocker nut. When the pushrod won't turn any more, turn the nut another half turn. Is that a good idea??
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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

[This message has been edited by Kevin Irving (edited April 08, 2001).]
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Old Apr 8, 2001 | 03:23 PM
  #2  
Biochem's Avatar
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
I've done it both ways (running and off) and each works well. While messier, the running method will keep you from having that one lifter that ticks a little when you are done!

Tighten rocker until pushrod is difficult to turn with your fingers. Then I give it 1/4 turn, tighten the poly lock, and crank it the rest of the way. This equals about a 1/2 turn when done. Some people go 3/4 turns. Anywhere between 1/4 - 3/4 turns is OK, but keep them all consistant (ie- all 1/4 or 1/2 or 3/4).

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Apr 8, 2001 | 03:30 PM
  #3  
Kevin Irving's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Norfolk, VA
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Poly lock?? I only have one nut on top of the rocker!! Where does this poly lock go?
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Old Apr 8, 2001 | 06:08 PM
  #4  
Joseph@SDSC's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Lubbock, TX USA
Poly locks have an allen set screw that locks down the adjustment. They usually come with roller rockers.
You can use a hand vacuum pump with a small suction cup to see if the upper o-ring seals are sealing. I know someone makes one just for that-to test the seal. Probably Mityvac or whoever may have it in their kit.
In reality any type of new seal is going to seal much better than the cracked old ones.


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-Joseph
ASE Master Automobile Technician
Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet

1967 Camaro (Vortec Heads, GM ZZ4 intake manifold, ZZ4 roller camshaft)
1992 Firebird (Weiler Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM ZZ4 Intake, Edelbrock 750, eventually will be Ram-Jet)
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Old Apr 8, 2001 | 06:27 PM
  #5  
RCR's Avatar
RCR
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From: Shelby Twp., Mi., USA
Car: '84 Fiero ('01 GA interior)
Engine: '96 4.0 Aurora
Transmission: '96 4T80E
There is a very specific way in which to tighten the rocker nuts and take out the valve lash. You just can't tighten them til the pushrod stops turning. You must have the cylinder you're working on at top-dead-center. The way I did it "how to rebuild your small block chevy - by David Vizard" is that you look to see which pair is "rocking". Since your intake is on, you'll have to watch the pushrods. When a pair is rocking, the intake will be opening just as the exaust is closing. Turn the motor over by hand and you can see what I mean. Start at #1, #6 will be rocking. Tighten the nuts on #1 til the slop is out. The pushrod will start to drag when spinning it in your fingers. Tighten 1/4 to 3/4 turn more, then do the other valve. Turn the motor over a 1/4 turn, #5 will be rocking. Tighten #8 valves. Repeat in 1/4 turn increments. The order is 1:6 rocking, 8:5 rocking, 4:7, 3:2, 6:1, 5:8, 7:4, and 2:3. Make sure the plugs are out to make turning the engine a bit easier. Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.

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Bob '89 Ram Air Formula 350
Last(lost)Member of the Elusive Great Lakes Crew
My car's homepage
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