I've got an 86Z with stock 305 CC QJet. Been modifying it for 3 months and now it will not start.
I have gone all the way down to the block and replaced Cyl heads with WORLD S/R Torquer 305's. New Edelbrock Cam shaft and Tru roller Timing chain. Dropped the oil pan and replaced the gasket. New 2 piece timing chain cover. New Performer Intake manifold & Valve covers. Hooker 2055 Headers and 3" Cat back. Rebuilt Carb. New 48,000 volt HEI Cap, new Accel Plug wires and Accel shorty Plugs.
It will turn over and try to start but will not catch. When the accelerator is pushed it will spit gas into the carb. After cranking 4 or 5 times it will spit gas straight up out of the carb.
I replaced the ignition module under the distributor tonight and still nothing.
I have double checked the timing 4 times. Pulled #1 plug & wire. Cranked until air blew out #1 hole. Checked Rotor to ensure it is pointing to #1 in the cap and balancer timing mark sits right at 0^. The plug was still dry.
It seems to be missing spark, but why? I checked the batt wire going into the dist. and it is getting 12volts at the wire.

What do I need to do next?

 

Did you test for spark? Sounds like your timings off.. how did you set it? when you did the cam and chain did you have em line up dot to dot? if so did you crank the engine over so that its firing on number 1 and not number 6? (dot to dot is tdc for both but firing on num 6)

 

Sounds alot like your distributor is 180° out.
Try loosening the hold down clamp, lifting the dizzy up about 2" or so, just so it clears the cam gear, rotate the shaft 180° and re-stab it.

Like 89Rs said, dot to dot alignment of the cam-crank gears does mean top dead center for #1. But keep in mind, #1 reaches top dead center TWICE during a complete combustion cycle. If the dizzy is 180 out, you're #1 is firing at the TDC of the exhaust stroke. #6 at this point would be the cylinder to light up. Both gears have to have the dot at 12 o'clock for TDC firing of #1.

 

If you retime it and it still does the same thing, I would look into your valve lash. I have seen overlashed engines do the same thing.

 

I did ensure it was dot to dot when I reinstalled the chain but I have not tried flipping the Dist. around yet. It makes sense that it would be 180 off. I will check that next.
What is the best way to check for spark at the plug if I need to do that?
I did not realize the #6 was firing when dot to dot I thought it was #1...thats good to know.
:hail:

2:30pm - Flipped dist ...still nothing. I will get a tester and back off a little lash. I tightened them originally just until no up/down movement and then turned 3/4 of a turn. Is this right? I've heard a couple of different ways.

5:30 pm Checked spark with tester...no spark at the plug.
Manual says replace pick up coil....Yeah right ...tried to do that and broke dist shaft housing. Will replace and see what happens.

 

Are you 100 percent sure ur distributer is in correct? If not 100 percent id just bump #1 up again to TDC (on compression stroke) then put the distributer in the correct location. Ur timing might also just be too retarded or too advanced. You can be like 10degrees off with the distrib, if u think ur prett close try to advance the distrib as much as u can and try it. ALso try it with retarding as much. If one of those works ur just like 1 tooth off which is a possibility. Let me know what happens. Oh ya make sure ur having spark 2 I know somebody said that already.

 

Still a no start.
I am getting spark now at the #1 plug after replacing the dist itself...almost up to 30 on the tester. However, it is still not starting. I've got spark and fuel but it will not catch.
I double checked the lash and backed off a little bit. I can spin each push rod with my fingers.
I can hold open the choke plate and see gas squirting in when the accelerator is pushed.
The spark tester shows spark. The pink/red wire going to the dist is showing 12v.
I've flipped the dist 4 or 5 times to make sure it is not 180 off. I am 99.99% sure the timing is right.
I am really frustrated and about to buy a 3$ "FOR SALE " sign. I've been working this for weeks now.
What am I missing?

 

If you have gas, and spark, then you problem just about 99.99999% has to be in your timing. Dont just flip around the distributor, take it completely out, crank to TDC compression stroke on #1, stab distributor with rotor pointing at #1 plug terminal, and it will start right up, assuming you do have the fuel and spark you are saying you have.

 

How can I be SURE I am on the TDC (on compression stroke)? Pull the valve cover??

 

Yes pull the cover, if both rockers are up and NOT compressiong the springs you are at TDC on compression stroke, if exaust spring is compressed you are on the exaust stroke and you have to turn the engine over once.

 

Thanks
I'll give it another stab and see what happens.

 

Sure, and im talking about on the #1 cylinder if theres any doubt in ur mind.

 

Still really frustrated!
Still a no start.
I have flipped the dist. 3 or 4 times and nothing.
It will crank all day but not run.
I pulled the fuel line off the carb and put it in a bottle and cranked the engine and got good spurts of gas. I installed a new filter with the rubber o-ring facing away from the carb.
I did a spark test on #1 & #2 wires and was getting good spark.
I propped open the choke plate and it squirts gas when the throttle is opened.
I do not see gas when it is cranking however. Is this normal?
It is kind of hard to hold a flashlight while holding the choke plate open and activating the throttle, but I do not see fuel squirting.
Funny thing is the plugs have not fouled and do not appear wet with fuel after cranking many times trying to get this thing going. When my timing was off previously it fouled the plugs quickly.
What do I do next?

 

Should i be able to see gasoline squirting while the engine is cranking but the accelerator is not being touched?

 

How fast does it crank? Does it sound like its ready to catch, fast spinning? Or does it sound like its fighting to get every rotation?

 

It sounds like it could crank a little faster, but generally seams like enough that it should catch. The battery is new but has been cranked so many times now that I bought a charger to keep it up but it can't be good for it after so many cranks over the last 4 weeks i have been trying to get it going.

 

I dumped gas directly down the carb and still did not get ignition. So I am thinking spark.
I installed Accel high performance header plugs (shorty design) 8199 plug no. 576S due to hooker headers. Could this cause a non fire. The porcelin is obviously shorter...but the business end is also a little shorter than the OEM plugs (AC R43TS). I pulled #1 plug and wire and watched it as I cranked and could just barely see a spark jumping the gap. Could this mean the plugs are bad? They are brand new and only been in since trying to get it started, but do not appear charred or blakened or fouled in any way.

 

Okay!!!!!!!!!!!
Get this!
I replaced the plugs just to be sure they are not fouled.
Went to crank it again and it is dark so I am using a flash light and I see gasoline coming OUT from around the #4,6 & 8 plugs. So I think my plugs are not sealing up the chamber.
How could this happen?
I try to tighten them with a box end wrench but still seeing a gas shower coming out.
The plugs go in real easy.
Could the holes be milled too large?
These are brand new World Products S/R Torquer iron heads.

Help me out guys!

 

World recommends either Accel 274 or 276 or Delco 43TS or 44TS. Basically, any plug with a .460" reach.

 

Raw gas belching out of the carb is usualy a valve timing issue, or valve sealing issue, is this a stock cam? roller? flat tappet?

 

it is not coming out of the carb. it is coming out from around the Spark plugs.
It is an edelbrock stock replacement cam.

 

Has anyone used these plugs with headers?
I've got Hooker 2055 and the longer plug is a problem. Is there any other option that would fit under the headers?

 

I have been using those plugs with no problems for a long time now.

 

I bought tapered index washers and put them on all the plugs and tightened them 'till they screamed and it worked!
No more gas coming out from around spark plugs!

However...still a no start.
If I am overlashed would this cause a no start?

Would that cause the valves to hang open and then there would be no compression?

If I floor it while cranking (as if starting when flooded) it almost catches but it immediately dies if I let off the accelerator.

Why???

valves stuck open?

These are brand new heads.

 

If in doubt, recheck them. The only thing it could possibly cost you to check is a set of valve cover gaskets.

 

unlashed and relashed everything just to be sure and still a no start. I cemented cork gaskets to the valve covers and they seal up very nicely and have never had a leak ...so it didn't even cost me a set of gaskets.
I am missing something simple, but don't know what it is.
Tonite I am going to put my old carb back on and see what happens.

 

Its RUNNING!
swapped carbs and retimed for the 6th time.
I was definitely 180 off when I retimed (carb spitting gasoline)
Flipped it around again back to where it was 10 min before and this time it fired up.
I was shocked and amazed.
I guess I could have been 1 tooth off or something.
I think all of you said timing. Problem is I do not know why I could not get it right the other 5 or 6 times.


Now I need to figure out why there is coolant in my oil.

Probably need to retorque all the head bolts.

Is it fairly common to have a coolant leak after bolting on new Cyl heads?
Any tips would be appreciated.

 

coolant in the oil is very bad. You need to get that yucky stuff out as soon as possible. YOu could have any number of problems. Head gasket, intake gasket, a crack. When you replaced the cam and everything, did you use a generous amount of assembly lube? If so, was it white? THis happened to me. I freaked cause I thought I toasted the engine. Definately track down that leak though.

 

I used lots of assembly lube. However, it was red, it came with the camshaft and lifters.

The oil looks like chocolate milk. Thats bad.
I only ran it for 2 min when it finally started. Hopefully I did not damage anything.

 

retorque everything to specs, change the oil, do a cooling system pressure test, and let us know how everything turns out.

 

Thanks for all your time responding to my questions! You guys are the best.
How do you do a cooling system pressure test?
I can just retorque the heads...I do not need to remove them?

Thanks again.
:hail:

 

retorking em is a good start.. wether or not you have to remove them depends on why theres coolant in your oil.. to do a cooling system pressure test you need a pressure tester, most autoparts store carryem I think..

 

I drained the oil tonight after retorqueing all the head bolts under the valve covers to 65lbs. some were only 40-50 lbs. I am hoping that was the problem.
When I drained the oil there was very little coolant mixed in with the oil so hopefully that is a good sign.


Anything else I need to do before I refill with oil and fire her up?

I also changed the filter and there did seem to be some coolant in the filter when I tipped it over.

 

oil looks good
no apparent oil in coolant

1 last question.

I am now setting the timing and it appears to be 45 degrees advanced.
When I turned the dist to set to 6-8 degrees it died and would not start.
Only started when I turned back to 45.
Would this indicate I am a tooth off on the dist gear?

I am on the #1 wire and am using an inductive light and the 4 wire EST is DISCONNECTED.