About a week ago I replaced my TPS, IAC, PCV, and checked timing. All had been great for the last week. Last night I removed my instrument cluster to install an 80psi factory guage in place of my 60psi. I had to use the needled from my old guage since the new one had faded needles. Anyway I test drove this morning and it worked great but I needed to reset my temp guage needle since it was reading a little off.

Anyway, while doing this I've been turning the ignition on and off frequently as well as starting my car for a couple seconds and turning it off, all very frequently.

Now I go to start my car and it barely starts, idles like totaly crap and then dies. Even with my foot on the gas it's horrible, missing like mad. I checked for codes and I'm getting 43 and 53. I reset my ECM a couple times and that didn't fix it.

It looks like 43 is:

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) out of adjustment OR knock sensor signal error OR low voltage at electronic spark timing control.

and 53 could be:

System over voltage - over 17.1 volts OR EGR sensor fault, improper EGR vacuum OR VATS alert

It sounds like to me that either starting and stopping my engine off and on quickly freaked something out or my TPS needs to be reset and that caused the VATS alert. Or maybe I guess the starting and stopping caused the VATS alert and my TPS went wiggy too.

Anyway, how do I fix this???????

Suggestions please?

Thanks!

 

Well to clear up the meaning of your trouble codes.

code 43 = Electronic Spark (ESC) Control circuit (will be set when you disconnect tan wire to set timing)

Code 53 = System Overvoltage.

They are not related to the VATS, TPS, or EGR.

You should start by having your battery and alternator checked along with all the connections for them.

 

Thanks for clearing those up for me.

So then what part of what I did which I stated above may have caused this? I'm sure it's related.

How do I go about fixing it?

My battery tests good and I tried 2 other alternators I had on the shelf and I get the same result. If anything my alternator undercharges. I've had a low voltage problem for over 2 years no matter what I try. New alternators, battery, cables, etc.

I swear I could remember reading somewhere that turning the ignition on and off rapidly put the car into a limp mode or something...

 

Well I've tried a few more things like disconnecting the alternator and it all did nothing.

I then decided to disconnect the TPS, and I got the same result. Does this mean my brand new TPS is FUBAR? I have no multimeter to test it. I threw away my old one too which was working

Any thoughts?

 

SOB

I dug threw a weeks worth of trash, including smashed rotted nectarines, and found my old TPS. Whil removing the new one to try the old one one of the 2 TPS bolts breaks off into the TB AND did I get either of the old TPS bolts out of the trash, NOOO 'cause I thought I didn't need them so now I have to go digging AGAIN! Then I somehow manage to break the plastic snap that holds the IAC connector firmly in place Lucky for me it stick in there nice and tight anyway. Then after all that I still have the same problem even with the other TPS sensor

AHHHHH!

Alright, need to chill.........

I need my car to drive to work in the morning.

Any ideas?

 

OK I've tried everything I can think of, even the stock PROM and still no luck. I'm going to take my ECM to the Chevy dealership tomorrow and see if they can test it. Doing a search I did find a couple cases where the ECM had gone bad, never thought it would happen to me though...

I'll post back the test results.

Does anybody have any other ideas on the problem in the mean time?