Im installing the batt in the trunk.Im using the Moroso sealed batt box.It looks good,just seems alot for a blue plastic box.I paid $90 for it.I know I have to use this type of box because of not having a rear firewall.
My question is,do I have to mount a master disconnect switch on the rear bumper?Or is the sealed/vented box OK?
If I do have to use a master discconect,What do I have to wire up to,to make the disconnect work?
Im thinking that the disconect would have to kill the whole car.Can I just disconnect the computer,which would kill the car?
Thanks,
Don

 

If there are any 92 Firehawk owners, they may be able to help you out. The Firehawk came with the battery already mounted in the hatch area. Sorry I don't know the answer myself, but there is source.

Chris

 

I too got screwed out of that $90 I got that blue box and ended up not using it cause the box wouldn't fit. I ended up just installoing it with brackets.
The box being sealed doen't have anything to do with the master disconnect. If you want to be NHRA (or any other sanctioning body) approved, you must have a master disconnect through your rear fender. There was a long debate on this board some time ago on what it has to disconnect and as I recall it has to be the positive battery cable.

 

You need to install a disconnect switch anytime you move the battery to the trunk, firewall or not. Mount the kill switch on the positive side per NHRA rules (which I don't fully understand why).

The problem you will have IS with the computer. Flipping the kill switch will erase the 'memory' of the computer so if you plan on using this or suspect PIA kids will flip it (if you park on the street) install a 10 amp fuse to jumper the switch. Most tech inspectors don't look for this.

This will keep memory on the clocks and computer, but if you try to start the car with the switch off the fuse will pop. If you really never plan on using the switch, or have the perfect PROM and no radio then don't worry about it.

I know my car runs a little under par for 20-30 miles if i disconnect the battery and re-connect it (and wastes a little more gas too)

Techies like to see the + battery cable as short as possible right to the switch. I rather use welding cable (real fine strand) than the wire many kits come with (i have no idea whats in your kit) because it supposedly carries more power, but I like it because it's alot easier to bend/conform around turns.

Hope this helps.

 

even if you have a master disconnect (between the positive side of the battery and the main connection to the starter, it will not shut off the car when you flip it. The ignition will still be hot through the alternator. You will have to put a disconnect there also. I have a trunk mounted battery (using the moroso box with no fit problems in the luggage area), and I do not have a master disconn. Not dragstrip legal mind you but it's a street car.

 

I understand the point about the postive side of the batt getting disconnected,but the car would still run off of the alt if I did that.How do I kill the car?
Why do they make it a big pain in the *** to put the batt in the hatch?
Don

 

notro don: just silly rules so they can bounce your car in the tech inspection
before you relocate the battery if you want to be legal you ought to send the NHRA 12 dollars for a rule book

------------------
ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Don, If you haven't done already i would agree with joel, use welding wire; it conducts better and bends nicer.

I wouldn't really use that kit unless you want too, looks kinda funny to me but it's your choice.

honestly, i feel that a dry cell battery would be a much better investment for you, normal battery's usually require a venting tube, and this way you won't have those problems; interstate makes two versions that work well. a yellow or red top preferably!
and if your worried about hiding it just make a cover out of something original like plexiglass or whatever you like, looks nicer in the end too!

my whole setup cost me $125 for the battery and mounting bracket(tray) and it's warranty lasts over three years as well as not having venting problems or fearing of leakage.

also, most department stores sell battery boxes for fishing boats, this is basically the same thing and much cheaper.

as far as needing a shutoff switch, you need this only to legally race, most autopart stores sell cheap versions for under $20, some of the nicer setups run around $40. not sure where exactly the make you mount it, but i've only seen it done in the rear!

I drove around for a year without a shutoff switch and everything was fine, my battery was in the inside well and i just disconnected it the few times i needed too. This year i've hidden it, and i will get a shutoff switch, only for the inside though, i'm not willing to drill a hole through my tailights!! hope i gave you some ideas

 

Some other things important things to add in are grounding issues.

I grounded mine thru the rear frame. There's a big (maybe around 7/8") hole in the rear frame rail. Drill a hole right in front of this 3/4" This will allow you to slip a nut in there thru the bigger hole and hold it with your finger. Clean off any paint and use 'star' washers to bite into the metal.

Use crimp on NAPA copper lugs (i forget the PN) and crush them with a vise. The silver colored with the plastic shield jobbers are flimsy and could break.

Mount the battery box as far as possible to the passenger side (which is hard because the well is pretty small).

Add ground straps from the starter body to the front frame, and from both heads to the firewall. If using an aftermarket CD ignition ground the - coil wire to one of the head grounding spots. (WARNING: If you're using a stock ignition NEVER ground the - coil to anything)

Finally If you're running a stereo in your ride and experience 'whining' thru the speakers, run the stereos ground to the battery.

Also. A remote charging location is a good idea. I have the power hatch and if my battery completely dies.. I'd be screwed... (I also have NO rear hatch keyhole, I have a remote button on the dash) Even then, at minumum, run a heavier wire from the alternator to the starter, and possibly break off a heavy lead to a spot where a jumper cable can easily hook to (the - can be hooked on the manifold/header or wherever)

Make sure to use at least 3/8" bolts for the box, grommet where the cables pass thru the hatch, and run up the inside of the framerail and clamp the cable well, heat shield it from the cat (and go over the shield)

Grounding probs are the worst and this will help out. Especially with a computer controlled car...

 

Thanks for all the tips guys.The only problem I still have is making the car stall when I turn the disconnect.If I just disconnect the batt,the car will still run.
I will put the disconnect on the passenger side rear bumper.I cant see how the inspectors would be able to see the the back of the disconnect,so I'll only disconnect the computer,which will cause the engine to die.Does this idea sound good?
Im aso going to be using solid motor and trans mounts,so I dont need to worry about the motor grounding straps because the motor will be grounded through the motor mounts.
Thanks for all the help
Don

[This message has been edited by Nitro Don (edited April 13, 2001).]

 

To kill the engine when the disconnect is switched, you have to run the alternator wire to the battery side of the disconnect.

If the battery is in the hatch area, it must be in an NHRA approved sealed and vented box and must have a disconnect on the back area of the car.

I converted the switch to a push-pull style and the rod comes out by the corner of the license plate. The rod is removable from the inside, so the disconnect can only be switched from the inside then.

There are some pics on my page.

Miles

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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
Currently installing 3.73's into my 9 bolt (YES,it is a 9 bolt & YES they are 3.73's, not 3.70. 4.11's to follow soon )
www.koolmeister.com