damn it , more alternator trouble, part 3 :(
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Springfield , MA , USA
damn it , more alternator trouble, part 3 :(
one of the brushes broke , so I took apart both of my alternators , and used the brush holder/brushes/springs from the other one and put everything back in together. alright...
first time I started the car: everything was fine , car ran for about 10 minutes until I looked at the alternator and it was HOT !!! little bit of smoke coming out of it too (I painted the case like a day before so it was probably just the paint burning).
alright, I figured I screwed up , took it apart again but EVERYTHING seems to be fine, no burn marks anywhere, nothing... hmm, so I figure that the rear case bearing wasn't lubricated enough (it wasn't) and that heated up the case etc... so I get some grease and put everything back once again.
put it in the car , start it , but this time I have my gauges hooked up and I see that I'm making 18V !!! 17 at first and then it moved onto 18 , WTF
so WTF is going on guys ? I still have two weeks to figure this one out , if I can't , then I'm getting a new one , but right now I REFUSE to buy a new one
LOL , IT CAN'T BE THAT COMPLICATED !!!!
first time I started the car: everything was fine , car ran for about 10 minutes until I looked at the alternator and it was HOT !!! little bit of smoke coming out of it too (I painted the case like a day before so it was probably just the paint burning).
alright, I figured I screwed up , took it apart again but EVERYTHING seems to be fine, no burn marks anywhere, nothing... hmm, so I figure that the rear case bearing wasn't lubricated enough (it wasn't) and that heated up the case etc... so I get some grease and put everything back once again.
put it in the car , start it , but this time I have my gauges hooked up and I see that I'm making 18V !!! 17 at first and then it moved onto 18 , WTF
so WTF is going on guys ? I still have two weeks to figure this one out , if I can't , then I'm getting a new one , but right now I REFUSE to buy a new one
LOL , IT CAN'T BE THAT COMPLICATED !!!! 
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55,
Output is determined by the exciter current in the rotor. This is controlled by the regulator, and is transmitted through the brushes and slip rings. If the regulator connections and internal and external grounds are good, there is little left but the regulator itself to blame for incorrect voltage. Since the regulators are not adjustable the only repiar for a failed regulator is replacement. You can get a regulator for about $15.00.
There is the possibility that the test/bypass tab on the regulator is being grounded inadvertently. Grounding the test tab will cause the regulator to produce full output, since it bypasses the regulator and connects full voltage to the rotor. The tab is barely visible through a "D"-shaped hole in the rear case half of the alternator. Make sure there are no foreign objects grounding the tab and that the tab is not bent from improper installation.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Output is determined by the exciter current in the rotor. This is controlled by the regulator, and is transmitted through the brushes and slip rings. If the regulator connections and internal and external grounds are good, there is little left but the regulator itself to blame for incorrect voltage. Since the regulators are not adjustable the only repiar for a failed regulator is replacement. You can get a regulator for about $15.00.
There is the possibility that the test/bypass tab on the regulator is being grounded inadvertently. Grounding the test tab will cause the regulator to produce full output, since it bypasses the regulator and connects full voltage to the rotor. The tab is barely visible through a "D"-shaped hole in the rear case half of the alternator. Make sure there are no foreign objects grounding the tab and that the tab is not bent from improper installation.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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