Ok I had my 1989 GTA put in the shop for a diagnostic check after having some problems (in about 2 to 3 shifts the car would start hesitating i believe the MAF sensor was asking the car for less fuel than it needed and the SES lights up for 15 sec or so)...my tps was running too high at 1.03 volts and so i bought a new one and set it up correctly. They also informed me that my MAF sensor was reading a code of 33 but it was working fine...I told the guy that the guy who sold me a car less than a year ago had just installed a bosch MAF sensor before he sold me the car and he asked me if i knew whether or not the guy had cleared the codes after installing it and i said i have no idea.

Now to the question at hand...i am told that sometimes you cant clear all the codes by just disconnecting the battery for 30 sec. Is this true about the MAF sensor or will it clear the code...I ask bc the battery had been disconnected at the place and i dont think it corrected the code but im wondering if now that i have the new tps if the code can be cleared and recorrected.

Thanks for reading this and replying with information if you can.

 

Unhooking the battery for a few seconds will clear all the codes. If you ever just want to clear the codes you can unplug the ORG aux wire going to the batt.

 

A '33' is rarely the fault of a defective MAF. It is usually caused by incorrect TPS, incorrectly plumbed air intake ducts, an altered MAF sensor, and/or incorrect DIS pulses being read by the ECM. Is this a 350 TPI being run with a 305 PROM?

You stated "my tps was running too high at 1.03 volts and so i bought a new one and set it up correctly." Exactly what was the final TPS output voltage at the closed throttle position? The acceptable range for an '89 TPI is 0.47-0.61 VDC. You may want to slightly increase the the TPS voltage in your case to help counteract the ECMs expectation for less metered intake air.

Stored error codes (and all BLM table data) will clear by removing battery power for a few minutes, or will be dumped by the ECM shift register after 50 engine run cycles. If you've started and operated the engine to temperature more than 50 times in the past year, all those old codes should be gone. Of course, if the conditions that caused the '33' haven't been corrected, they code will recur, and still be present in a scan.

 

Well before the tps was set high and it didnt counteract the incorrect MAF and now that i have set it down to about 4 volts it has helped but i am still having the problem just not as often...it might happen once or twice a day instead of everytime i accelerate like it did before.

But what do you recommend i do...the MAF could have been setup improperly by the previous owner if he didnt clear the codes afterward but if i clear the codes now whats the difference? I dont know what the problem is. I have cleared the codes since i put in the new tps and it seems to be doing much better but its not its old self something still has yet to be fixed...Where should i look next Vader?

 

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Im sorry im learning about cars and i think i know a good deal but im not perfectly keen on them what does this question mean?

 

Disconnect the battery, clean both battery terminals and cable terminations, and reconnect them. If you have a Theft-Loc radio, you'll need to disable the lock before disconnecting the battery. You'll also have to reset the radio stationm presets and clock.

As for the PROM question, was this engine installed into a vehicle that formerly had a 305TPI engine?

Regarding the TPS, the voltage needs to be set at the curb idle (closed throttle) position, not the wide open position.

 

i had a code 33 for the logest time until i replaced teh MAF sensor relays there are two and each cost like 15 bucks and it solved my code 33 or maybe it was code 34? just thought it might help if clearing the codes don't work.