I have mine out as part of the engine swap. It's not that old, and there is no scoring on the old flywheel or anything. The new engine has a new flywheel.

I'm a bit tight on funds, so I don't wanna get a brand new clutch to replace one that still has alot of life left in it. The problem is, I have no idea how to tell. Is there some measurment as to how thick the friction material should be or something?

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

Use a caliper and check the thickness of the old disk in a couple of places. Go down to the parts store with the same pair of calipers and check the thickness on a new one. If your disk is not OEM, call the manufacturer. They should be able to tell you the thickness of a new one of that same model.

 

Look at where the friction material is riveted to the plates. If there is a fair amount of space there yet, (rivet head well below surface of friction material) then you should be fine.

However..... If you are already there..... Spend a few more bucks, and buy a new one. Save having to rip things apart again later.....

 

I measured .065" from one rivit head to the friction surface. I'm guessing thats not very much..anyone else know for sure? I don; thave a new one to compare with.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

you should be able to buy a new clutch-disc from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty for under 45 bucks..

Do it right or do it twice

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

since it was new only a year ago i can't see how it would be close to needing replaced.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Well..hense why I asked. I know I am hard on it tho

 

lol...this a a clutch thats gotta channel the frankenstein twin turbo blow through holley 355...i don't think an autozone special is gonna hold, hehehe

 

LOL, actually I wanna keep a stock level clutch....I think of it as a fuse for the rest for the drivetrain

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

heh- just know when it gets hot to stop and let it cool- i saw a video where the clutch got TOO hot and blew the hood and fenders off an rx7....

anyways, thats actually a lot of material on a clutch, they dont have a lot of material to begin with. what ay could do, is go to a autozone or something, buy one, and measur eit, compare numebrs, and then return it if ya decide ya dont need it

Steve

Steve

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86 Firebird, LG4, t-tops, 2.73 open rear, SLP 3 inch cat back exhaust, catco cat, 1 inch carb spacer, Fiberglass cowl induction hood, Formula wheels, vette servo.

Current Plans: Waiting on: rear end parts- upgrading to 373's, 28 spline axels, slp zexel torsion posi, and a disk brake setup. Also have lowering springs, front struts, and hopefully a new mild 350.


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88 Firebird Formula- deseased 2/9/99- 305 TPI, SLP 3 inch exhaust, SLP Intake runners, SLP cam, 3.45 BW disc brake posi, WS6, NOS, and all that good stuff, 13.8 on the motor, 12.89 on NOS and slicks! Hit by what else!?!? a FORD EXPLORER!!!!!!