Rebuilt this engine less than a year ago. I reused the crank, connecting rods, and lifters. I drove it for 2000 miles with no problems. Last week I started hearing this ticking, a little at idle, mostly between 1500-2500 rpm's. This week it also started knocking. It dosent knock at idle, or its just not loud enough to hear. When I open the hood and rev it above 1500 the knock can be heard, but its not real loud, and its not constant. I might here like 6 knocks, then it stops for a second and knocks some more. Any ideas? I was already planning on replacing everything this winter except the block, crank, rods, and pistons, so I hope the problem dosent lie within there...

 

???

 

That is what my 305 was doing. The #1 rod bearing was totally gone. Sounds like you might have spun a bearing. If you can isolate where the knock is coming from, like the side of the block, that can help you find out what it is. I wouldn't run it much until you do find out though. Good luck
FBird

 

Seems like the number 6 or 5 area. Would that make sense since those two connect to the crank near eachother?

 

They connect at the same place on the crank. Have you checked to see if you have metal in your oil? To be sure you need to pull the pan. It isn't that hard, but it is a pain. Then you will know exactly what you are dealing with.

 

I just changed the oil today, and it was very clean. So if a rod is gone, can I just replace that one, or do I have to replace all of them?

 

Well, if it is a rod, you are probably in for some work. You'll need to pull the crank and the rods. Get the crank turned and rods re-sized. Not to mention clean the block like crazy. Or put an oversized bearing in it and start building your next motor

 

I would replace them all while you're at it. No reason not to. I just got through replacing my rod bearings for a knock. #4. I wish I'd done it when I did my main bearings. Live and learn.

 

I put in all new bearings, rod and main, when I rebuilt it. Putting the crank, rods, and pistons in was just a pain to me so I dont wanna have to do it again.

 

You need to isolate the knock more. Hopefully it isn't the rod. It might be an exhaust leak, or loose rocker arm / pulled stud. If you are positive it is in the block you are going to have to go in there after it.

 

I will try to narrow it down tomorrow, so if its a rod, will the knock be louder from under the car? It sounds like the knock is coming from the top of the engine, and not down in it. I'll pull the valve covers too and check the rockers and studs.

 

take a piece of a broom handle. I know it sounds crazy, but it works. Put one end to your ear, and the other end to the engine. Kinda like a weird car stethescope. You should be able to figure out if it is coming from the bottom of the block of not. Good luck.
FBird

 

With the engine running, pull spark plug wires one at a time. The one that makes the knock either quiet down or go away is the one your looking for.

 

How is that gonna work? A knock is mechanical, you will hear it no matter what.

 

As soon as he had the first disconnected plug wire in his hand with the engine running he'd decide it was a bad idea anyway.

 

Tens of thousands of volts and a good dose of current doesnt hurt... much...

 

That reminds me of the time I had my friend test to see if I was getting spark at all, so I had him hold onto a plug wire.

Lonestar you're a funny man :yourock:

 

It relieves the combustion pressure therefore reducing or eliminating the knock. This works if the problem is in a rod or piston.

As far as electrocution, that is why they make chicken pliers.

 

Chicken pliers?

 

SPARK PLUG TERMINAL PLIERS
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbatt01.html

We have always called them chicken pliers as in for those too chicken to grab a wire without them.

 

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbatt01.html

For those to chicken to grab a wire without them.

sorry...double post