ok... so what all would need to be done to a non roller block, to put in stock roller peices? i have a roller 305 in my trans am now but bought a non roller 1 peice rear seal block to build up but want to run a roller cam.... so please help me out... thanks

 

Make things easy. Ignore the factory setup and get a retro-fit roller system. As far as being way more work than whats needed, on top of the fact that I dont even think it's possible, it's not even the best roller design out there. Way to complex to achieve the same function as a retro fit roller design.

 

AMEN BRUTHA!!!

Thank the Lord... someone speaking sense....

Stekman is right, you will end up spending no extra money if you really think about it to just go ahead and get the retro-fit roller setup instead of spending cash to fab up and get the older block machined to work w/ factory roller setups...

Take this advice... PLEASE...:lala:

 

no machining require, just get the "original design" roller lifters from aftermarket cam grinders

 

hey ede please elaborate i have all stock valve train set up from a roller 305... so there would be no machining needed to install the stock stuff back into a stock non roller block?

 

I believe what ede means is the "Factory roller" stuff BEFORE GM bastardized the roller and made it far more complex than what it needs to be (which is what you probably know of as the "factory roller")

Either way, the little linkbar design (no strange spider thingy or dogbone retainers).

 

http://www.primediapowerpages.com/cg...00216&2D101047

Here's a pic of the two different styles.
What isn't shown is the spider/ dogbone retainer system used with the OEM style rollers.
The catch is, you have to have a factory roller block to accept the factory design.
If you do some searches, you'll find more pics of the two different systems.

 

Factory roller on top, retro fit in the middle, a side by side comparison on the bottom.

note: the retro rollers I pictured are solid rollers, but they are the same design. They are also .350" taller to clear factory roller blocks and bowtie blocks.



These are the little "towers" that are missing on flat tappet blocks. These are the towers that the spider retainer bolts to.



Those are the front 2 bolt holes (and the cam retainer plate). Those would need to be drilled/tapped.

on a side note, also, the amount of clearance on the sides of the block, in the lifter valley itself would probably need grinding to make room for the dogbone.

to sum things up, the ends do not justify the means.

 

How is the cam axial play retained on a retro roller setup? Is it done with a button on the timing chain cover, or do you have to get the block machined for a retainer plate?

 

Cam button prevents forward walk. The timing gear hits the block which prevents rear-ward movement. I use a torrington bearing spacer to redice friction. Not needed, though.

 

Oh OK....I think I understand, but just for clarification, the "cam button" is attached to the timing chain cover correct, or no??

Thanks!

EDIT: As far as the rearward play, I got that part. sounds the same as a flat tappet setup.

 

You know, I actually contemplated whether or not to include that in my reply. I opted not to.

The cam button installs in the center of the cam sprocket. There is a nice little hole that it fits into. Once installed, there is a little plate that holds it in place. It is then pinned between the cam face (the side that bolts to the sprocket) and the little retainer plate.



You can see the button, the hole it fits in, and the little plate that holds it in place.

 

The picture no workie.

But it's clearer now. Thanks for the info! I'm interested in this because if there is no machine worked involved, I'd like to change mine to a roller setup this winter. I just don't want to pull the engine - then it's too much work.

EDIT: Oh, and sorry 86IROCTHD - I didn't mean to walk all over your post.

 

For those interested in saving some $$... If you can find a "deal" on a later design camshaft, it can be made to work in an earlier block with the addition of a spacer behind the timing gear used in combination with a thrust button.