i'm redoing my valvetrain right now so that it'll work well with my new hsr intake. i have new springs and retainers that can hold the lift my cam's dishing out, 1.6 crane gold rr's, arp 3/8 rocker studs, and comp cams high energy pushrods. i wanted your opinions on what else i should do to make sure i don't run into problems with my setup later on. the most i'll take her is probably around 6500-7000 rpms. i have a cam with 224/230 durration, and .535/.544 lift with 1.6 rr's. i was looking at getting a rev kit and high performance lifters as well, but i want to make sure im getting the right stuff before i buy them. my friend told me i should get guide plates, but since i have self aligning rockers, isn't that a no-no? i just want everything to be built strong so that nothing happens later on. anyone have any advice? thanks guys, i really appriciate all the help

 

You don't need guide plates.

The lifters you already have will be fine, as long as they're in good shape.

You don't need to rev it to 7000 RPM. With that cam and that intake, the car will go faster if you shift by about 6200 RPM. All you'll accomplish by spinning it higher, is blowing it up sooner.

Be realistic. Spend your money where it will do the most good, consistent with the parts of the motor that determine its basic characteristics. Avoid the temptation to spank off with high-dollar romantic-sounding stuff that's a waste in your application.

The single best thing you can do to ensure longevity in the valve train, is to use good springs. At the lift you're talking about, no 1.25" OD spring will last long; and only very carefully set up 1.45" ones will. Get somebody that preps race heads to set them up; not yerbasic corner parts store guy, unless he happens to build heads for the local circle track guys that win.

 

You'd also have better valvetrain stability with 7/16ths studs and rockers Vs 3/8ths.

If your rockers and studs are unused, you may be able to exchange them for 7/16ths. TPIS claims 4-10 HP with just that mod.

Never run self-guided rockers AND guide plates at the same time; it's either or.

CompCams recommends the guide plate route for high performance applications rather than the self-guided rocker route. The reason wasn't given, but I suspect the guide plate setup is a little more reliable.

And, yes, I agree - 6500-7000 is well over the power peak of a 224/230. 6200 sounds about right.

Jake

 

3 of the lifters i have are shot, and im sure the rest won't last too long either. thats why i want to replace them. and your right... 6500-7k is a little too much for that cam, lol. would the comp cams rev kit be enough to handle going up to 6200? only reason i want a rev kit is because i dont want to experience valve float for any reason. ill see if i can replace my studs and go with the 7/16s. if i do go with the 7/16 studs, should i also go with non-self aligning rockers and order a pair of guide plates? and if so, should i use raised or flat guide plates?

 

Do some research on the rev kit before you buy one. I've read articles claiming the rev kit cost power. I don't know why, but it was in one of the mags. If you go with a rev kit, make sure it's the one that will work with the lifters you buy.

If you opt for non-self-aligning rockers, choose the raised guide plates; they intersect with the pushrods at a higher point and provide a little more stability.

With the correct springs for the camshaft, you won't experience valve float without a rev kit. You may, however, encounter lifter pump up at those RPMS. You'd be right at the edge for hydraulic lifters.

Air Flow Research warns about this. It's best to check around, especially with the company that makes the lifters you're going to buy.

Jake