The infamous code 32
The infamous code 32
Yeah, now I got it. Cruising down the highway, then *bam*! SES light comes on and I pull the code, and get a 32.
So my question is this: how do i check the vacuum/EGR valve? I can get my hands on a hand-vacuum pump. I have an 86 TPI 305.
What other things can I be checking? In the past I've found a blown in-line fuse for the EGR circuit (a very tiny fuse, easily overlooked). But now, the fuse is still good, and the connection is good too.
Any direction that you can give me would be truly appreciated, as I'd like to correct the underlying cause.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
So my question is this: how do i check the vacuum/EGR valve? I can get my hands on a hand-vacuum pump. I have an 86 TPI 305.
What other things can I be checking? In the past I've found a blown in-line fuse for the EGR circuit (a very tiny fuse, easily overlooked). But now, the fuse is still good, and the connection is good too.
Any direction that you can give me would be truly appreciated, as I'd like to correct the underlying cause.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
Joel,
Test the EGR solenoid resistance. Inspect the vacuum hoses to and from the solenoid. Test the resistance of the diagnostic temperature sensor at the base of the EGR:
All of these can be done without removing the intake plenum. If none of that reveals a problem, you'll have to go in about this far to check for EGR port blockage, bad sensor wiring, or a failed valve:
ACtually, you don't have to remove the intake runners and fuel rails, but the picture was clearer that way.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Test the EGR solenoid resistance. Inspect the vacuum hoses to and from the solenoid. Test the resistance of the diagnostic temperature sensor at the base of the EGR:
All of these can be done without removing the intake plenum. If none of that reveals a problem, you'll have to go in about this far to check for EGR port blockage, bad sensor wiring, or a failed valve:
ACtually, you don't have to remove the intake runners and fuel rails, but the picture was clearer that way.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Can i do any of this without removing anything?
As far as checking the vacuum lines: can i just hook up a hand-vacuum and pull a suction on the lines to the EGR? I assume the EGR will close (or open?) when a vacuum is drawn on the EGR valve... and hopefully it stays that way...
Do i have a correct understanding of how this works? I dont have a good grasp on what vacuum lines are for anyway.
Hopefully i can reach the EGR with my ohmmeter, but thats another story.
Those pictures are sweet. They will be a huge help.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
[This message has been edited by JoeIROC (edited May 14, 2001).]
As far as checking the vacuum lines: can i just hook up a hand-vacuum and pull a suction on the lines to the EGR? I assume the EGR will close (or open?) when a vacuum is drawn on the EGR valve... and hopefully it stays that way...
Do i have a correct understanding of how this works? I dont have a good grasp on what vacuum lines are for anyway.
Hopefully i can reach the EGR with my ohmmeter, but thats another story.
Those pictures are sweet. They will be a huge help.
Joe
------------------
86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4 with Trans-go shift kit
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip
[This message has been edited by JoeIROC (edited May 14, 2001).]
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