Ignition trouble
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Tuckerton, NJ
Car: 89 T/A
Engine: 305 TBI (Hopefully LS1 someday)
Transmission: 700 R4 (T-56 is planned too)
Ignition trouble
ok here we go, I've already searched and haven't found anything that helped me with my peticular problem. Treid to start the car the other day and nothing happened, starter wouldn't even kick in. After about 10 minutes it started like normal. I figured the starter selinoid was going bad, and replaced the whole starter. Then a few days later, it happened again. To aide my self in troubleshooting and to get the car home from the gas station, lol, I installed a jumper wire from the selinoid over near the battery so I could touch it to the terminal. The first time I used it, it worked fine (key in the on position of course). The second time I used it the starter would crank, but the enging wouldn't turn over. I was beginning to think it was the ignition switch on the steering column, because it can disable the ignition coil. But today, it did it again and I checked the coil while jumping the starter, and I do have spark. Looks to me like I don't have fuel.
So, What device would cause the starter to not kick on, and possibly remove the fuel some how?
I know the fuel pump will kick on after the pressure builds up as a back up for the relay.
Here's a few other key points of info:
VATS: I disabled it about a year ago by pulling the wires out of the column and installing the correct resistors in series
Alarm: The car does have an alarm system, but the starter kill relay was never installed, and I cut the remote start wire to determine weather or not if that was it. I installed the alarm myself, and I don't see how it could be doing this.
Car: 89 T/A 305 TBI
Any suggestions would be a huge help
Thanks,
Wayne
So, What device would cause the starter to not kick on, and possibly remove the fuel some how?
I know the fuel pump will kick on after the pressure builds up as a back up for the relay.
Here's a few other key points of info:
VATS: I disabled it about a year ago by pulling the wires out of the column and installing the correct resistors in series
Alarm: The car does have an alarm system, but the starter kill relay was never installed, and I cut the remote start wire to determine weather or not if that was it. I installed the alarm myself, and I don't see how it could be doing this.
Car: 89 T/A 305 TBI
Any suggestions would be a huge help
Thanks,
Wayne
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
One or more of your resistors in the by-pass may have gone south on you. Check the resistance value of it and post it here and I will tell you if it is good or bad.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Tuckerton, NJ
Car: 89 T/A
Engine: 305 TBI (Hopefully LS1 someday)
Transmission: 700 R4 (T-56 is planned too)
good idea, will take a look at that tomarrow, I know it should be 1470 ohms. went throught all that when I by passed it
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 11
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Wilburwm
good idea, will take a look at that tomarrow, I know it should be 1470 ohms. went throught all that when I by passed it
good idea, will take a look at that tomarrow, I know it should be 1470 ohms. went throught all that when I by passed it
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Tuckerton, NJ
Car: 89 T/A
Engine: 305 TBI (Hopefully LS1 someday)
Transmission: 700 R4 (T-56 is planned too)
well, it hasn't happened again yet, darn intermittant problems, but I got my new ignition switch in the mail today, so I'll be under my dash this weekend trying to fix it once again. And I'll make sure to check the resistance of those resistors too, while I'm under there.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Tuckerton, NJ
Car: 89 T/A
Engine: 305 TBI (Hopefully LS1 someday)
Transmission: 700 R4 (T-56 is planned too)
ok, I tested the riesitors. I know that they are suposed to total 1470 ohms. I pulled it all apart and got a staedy 1456. I put it all back together, and everything worked fine, one time. Now it seems worse. The second time I tried to start it, I heard a loud buzzing coming from the kick panel, hey, there's a starter enable relay in there.
I pulled it all out and here's what I get.
Yellow wire, coming from the ignition switch - about 9.5 VDC
Green/White wire - about 9.5 VDC
Battery - 12.7 VDC
Green/White
in park - 0 ohms to ground
out of park - open (infinite ohms)
am I reading through the selinoid?
now the car just plain, won't start unless I use the jumper I installed from the starter to the battery with the key in the on position. With the vats resistors out, it will not start even when I use the jumper.
jumping the yellow, and green/white wires at the starter enable relay, did not work in fact, now when I turn the key, the lights get dim, like the battery is dying. Short? I dunno, starts like a champ with the jumper.
any more suggestions, lol?
I pulled it all out and here's what I get.
Yellow wire, coming from the ignition switch - about 9.5 VDC
Green/White wire - about 9.5 VDC
Battery - 12.7 VDC
Green/White
in park - 0 ohms to ground
out of park - open (infinite ohms)
am I reading through the selinoid?
now the car just plain, won't start unless I use the jumper I installed from the starter to the battery with the key in the on position. With the vats resistors out, it will not start even when I use the jumper.
jumping the yellow, and green/white wires at the starter enable relay, did not work in fact, now when I turn the key, the lights get dim, like the battery is dying. Short? I dunno, starts like a champ with the jumper.
any more suggestions, lol?
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