Ok, so I've narrowed the problem down a little. It's not bad gas from BP 'cause it runs good when cold. It starts to stumble, bog, and stall when it warms up. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributer cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, and fixed vacuum leaks. I'm running out of money!!! I don't know what to do next and I need this car daily. Is my next step dropping the tank? Rebuilding the carb?

It's an '87 Camaro SC with a 305 and a CC Quadrajet.

Which fuel pump did you replace?

Are you getting a SES light when these symptoms appear?

I replaced the mechanical pump. Most of the emissions parts have been removed, so I don't think the engine light is reliable. Do you think it's the pump in the tank causing these problems? I'm gonna have to remove the tank by myself, so I wanna be pretty sure that it's the problem before I jump into it.

This problem started out small and has gotten to the point that I can't drive the car anymore.

Anyone?:shrug:



I think I'm gonna drive my Chevy to the levy and leave it there!

Yes, it is reliable. It's telling you something isn't working the way it is supposed to. Any "emissions parts" that have been removed that cause the SES light to come on should be replaced immediately.

After you do that, see how it runs.

The fuel pump won't directly cause an SES light. However, an excessively lean condition because of a lack of fuel could set a trouble code. That particular model does require a properly operating electric in-tank pump, or else the pump should be removed and rely on the mechanical only.

However, I doubt that's the problem. Sounds like it operates half-way decent in closed loop, then goes south in closed loop. That probably means you disabled some feedback input that is needed for proper operation.

I'll try the engine light and tell ya what it says.

It's giving me a code 34. Is that the MAP sensor?

It ran like a new car today until it warmed up and then it went back to its' old ways. It usually starts messin' up after I drive it and then shut it off for a while.

Would replacing the MAP sensor fix this or can a code 34 mean something else is wrong?

MAP sensor isn't even hooked up and I know it wasn't hooked up 6 months before this problem started. It's also giving me a code 32.

Everything is the same as it was before it started to mess up. I haven't unplugged anything, if it's unplugged now then it was unplugged before. I'm lost!

The SES light isn't on while cruising down the road, but if I accelerate hard it comes on as I let up on it.

:shrug:

The computer can't control properly if it isn't getting the proper input information. Either hook everything up the way it is supposed to be, or put on a non-CC system (carb, distributor, torque converter lock-up).

I can't answer why you didn't get an SES light before this. Perhaps the coolant temperature sensor wasn't working properly, and it wasn't trying to go into closed loop before. I don't know. But, most likely, it'll be cheaper in the long run to fix it back up to work the way it is supposed to work than to cut & run to non-CC.

I've had the car for 6 months or so. The SES light was on when I got it, but it ran fine. That's when I fixed the light by removing it!

Isn't there a chance that the fuel pressure is dropping off when the engine warms up and starving a fuel system that is already weak?

That's the only other thing I have read after countless searches that makes a little sense. I haven't found any computer related problems on here that match what my car is doing.:shrug:

I've had an in-tank electric pump that would work okay when cool, then die when hot. But, it wasn't a 3rd gen, and it wasn't carburated.

The best way to know is to get a fuel pressure gage on it.

What you think is running fine may be way off what running properly would be. But then, I'm really biased in my opinions about the capabilities of the CC carb system.