I have a 350 t.p.i. setup, I have never had a problem like this..I drove it today about 25 miles to the doctors when I left the doctors it starte fine and ran fine, drove about 20 miles to walmart, shopped for about 15-20 min. When I started the car the idle started jumping from maybe 500 to 1500rpm, it wouldnt stop doing it, I tried reving it, that didnt help, I put it in drive and it stalled. I tried a few more times and it still did it. A few times I would put the car in ignition position to see if the fuel pump would turn on to make sure I was getting gas, and a couple times the pump wouldnt turn on!? But finally it started drove it home, no problems. I checked my power wire to the fuel pump to make sure it wasnt shorting out, it was fine. I checked the ground for the fuel pump, it is fine to. But I tried it again after it was sitting for a while, it started ok but as soon as I put it in reverse it started jumping with the idle, then I heard from the air intake like it was trying to breath really hard and then it would poop out!? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any help.-Rob

 

Check the Throttle Position Sensor

 

What should I look for on it? How do I check it ? I know where it is but not what to look for. Thanks -Rob

 

anyone?

 

Ok, you checked the power and grounds to the pump, how about checking the fuel pressure? PSI at rail with ignition in run and engine off=____PSI, Key off pressure holds? YES/No. PSI at rail with vacuum line off engine@idle=____PSI. PSI at rail with vacuum line on engine@idle=____PSI. This should give you a feel for the pumps operation and that the vacuum has an effect on FP.

 

I just went through almost the same thing on mine, only I would start mine and it would stall out, hesitated in reverse. My MAF was bad, as was my IAC(might try cleaning it) The IAC was the source of my problems btw. As for teh TPS, theres a article in the tech section of the website that tells you how to adjust it and also how to clean the IAC. Basically you stick 2 wires/paperclips into the top and middle holes on the back of the TPS and turn the car to on and put a DMM to the jumpers. Should be .54VDC ideal. Hope this helps some, I went through 2 months trying to get mine goin. Which of course I owe alot to the fine members of these boards :rockon:

 

I found out I had a code 42, and that meant the EST Bypass was disconnected or bad. So I had to disconnect it totally and then disconnect the battery for 1 min. Then reconnect everything. I checked for any codes and it was fine..!