A couple of question regarding windage trays?

First off, is it worth it for my build? I'm doing a 383 and looking at max rpm around 6000-6250 for shift points. Maybe 6500 for redline. Would I see a significant gain in hp or a drop in ET with a Windage tray?

Secondly, clearance. Will the added stroke hit a tray? What kind of W. tray are people using with strokers? If I would get tray, could someone recommend one they use. I've seen some for $20 to $80.

Thanks.

 

Yes you will see a significant gain in HP, over some other setups. Less over others. It depends on what you compare it to.

All it does, is to help isolate the crank from the oil sump, and help return the oil to the sump faster. It raises HP by removing the parasitic drag from the crank, of whipping a bunch of oil mist and spray around in the crankcase.I've seen people claim as much as 12 HP. Sounds a bit enthusiastic to me, but whatever. Even if it's only 5 HP, it's still not a bad idea for cheap HP, and better oiling to boot.

Couldn't say about fitment to a 383 in particular; I prefer to use larger motors than that when building for performance. More bore specifically. But, I can tell you, on a 400, the flat Moroso one (Teflon-coated) and the GM Z28 pan work great. I doubt the miniature bore would make much difference though. I have a Milodon "Diamond Stripper" one laying around, that's supposed to be the best, but I've never used it; doesn't fit 400 main caps.

I don't know if it's "worth it" to you; but it's "worth it" to me.

 

RB, thanks for the response.

The added oil control would be a nice addition. I'm sure on a high rpm big block you'll get the better hp gains. I think I'm just worried about clearance issues with the added stroke. Yea, its probably a good idea to get one. You wouldn't want to get rid of that Milodon piece at all?? (price?)

Here's what it sells for at jegs:

Windage Tray

Also, on the subject of oiling. I was looking at pumps. What would you recommend? The Melling 55, 55A, or 55HV?

Thanks.

 

well i came across this while seaching and am having the same questions.

im using a l98 block stroked out to a 383. im using the moroso 20182 pan which has a baffle but not a windage tray or crank scraper.

can any one help me out as to what crank scraper and windage tray will fit my application??? jegs doesnt help at all and all the searches ive come across dont give any definite answers.
i dont even know how or where the crank scraper and windage tray bolt onto

pan

and heres the windage tray and scraper i was looking at. i know my oil pan already has a baffle but this is pretty much cheaper...
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...98&prmenbr=361

 

Funny someone posted about this today! I just got my studs in the mail from Pace, which is a flat-out ripoff at 7.88 apiece, and the windage tray from Summit - just 10 minutes ago. Summit also carries the oil pan, but it's not normally carried and I won't recieve it till the 22nd of this month. (backorder) But the pan's cheaper at Summit than at Pace.

The cheapest way to go about this is to plan it BEFORE you order any studs for your buildup.....trust me on this one. Buy a stud set for a windage tray because If you decide to add one after the fact like me, you end up paying the ripoff price for 5 individual studs like I did. - or buy another complete set for like 20 bucks more than that....

Here's the thread RB gave me the info on...

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=272979

 

well my shortblock i bought assembled, im taking it apart to reclean it before final assembly but i didnt want to have to buy new arp studs....i guess thats what windage trays require???

i just dont see how the tray attaches (to the main studs) without hitting the counter balances on the crank

 

It takes five longer main cap studs to mount the tray/w locknuts. I feel your pain.

I already had all ARP studs too, but I'll have to get rid of 5 of them to use the Pace studs....they have both a nut built on along with a landing the tray sits on to set the distance from the crank throws. I'll know more myself when I install mine.

 

that sucks. i dont want to just throw away good arp bolts...
well any idea if crank scrapers are the same way???