I went to go pick up so new Valve O-ring seals today to finish putting back together my heads and the guy at the parts store insisted I buy the "umbrella type" and not the standard o-ring. Well I started to put the head back together and I am having my doubts about the umbrella ones effectively working becuase it seems like it would get stuck on the exhaust oil shield and the intake valve seal. Could someone enlighten me as to weather the guy was right or not and if I should install them on all the valves. Thanks in advance and if you can answer this question.

 

The O-ring type is basically uselss. All it does is keep some of the oil that collects in the center of the retainer from running down the valve stem.

There are 2 other types: the "umbrella" type, and the (for lack of a better word) "positive" type. I prefer the "positive" ones, which use a little metal clamp to hold them onto the top of the valve guide. The "umbrella" type is just a thin little shell of rubber that sticks onto the valve stem and rides up and down with the valve, and all it does is keep oil from running down the stem too. Still basically worthless.

So what kind of stuff do you actually have?



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Let me share with you how the factory began sealing their engines up just a few years after your engine was originally built:

Intake: THREE different methods were used TOGETHER. 1. The stock o-ring just below the valve locks on the valve stem (keeps oil from sliding staight down the stem). 2. Metal "shedder" around the top of the valve spring just below the retainer (keeps oil from splashing off the spring directly onto the valve stem). 3. Rubber positive seal that clamps around the valve guide boss and does a final "squeegee" of any oil off the vlave stem before it goes down into the valve guide. Now THAT is how to seal up the valves REAL TIGHT. I recommend you do it that way if building a daily-driven engine- it's BULLETPROOF, even if the guides are a little worn.

Exhaust side should NOT NOT NOT be sealed up that tight- you'll wear the guides out in only a few hundred miles. Just throw some cheap umpbrella seals on the exhaust and forget about it. Exhaust valves run a lot hotter and require a lot more lubrication. THe factory accomplished this by installing the o-ring and shedder combination but NOT the positive seal on the guide.

Thought you might like to know.


[This message has been edited by Damon (edited May 23, 2001).]

 

Thanks guys, that was precisely what I wanted to know.

 

I agree with Damon 100%

If your order a valve seal kit from, say, Fel-Pro for a 85 up LB9, you will get the positive intake seals, a clear hard plastic exhaust seal, and a bunch of square cut o-rings. Thats what I throw back on my cars.

 

I just found out what the factory intake seals look like, how did those things even work? Looks like the previous owner already install those posative seals(if those are the things that are pressed onto the head) and the hard plastic ones for the exhuast. That was my concern all along, I am afraid of the umbrellas getting stuck by suction and not working very well at all. The posative seals are slightly bigger and wider then the factory ones so I do not know whether or not the umbrella oil slings will really work for my application now that it is altered from OEM. Thanks so much for the help guys, I am really learning a lot here..lets hope this is my last question on this topic.

 

i know the o ring seals don't do much but i use them along with the umbrella seals. cost about 25 dollars for both sets.

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