383 with fastburn heads and miniram III. Some1 told me that would be a great combo and porting the heads would help it even more. Then someone said they heard you have to becareful porting fast burns or you can actually hurt the flow so i dunno. Would there be other heads that would be better? Or should i stick with this combo.

 

In a generalized manner, yeah, that isnt too bad of a combo. But you left out some important facts. Compression ratio, cam selection, etc. These play an important part in a combo. I have seen perfect engines, with a poor cam selection make 50hp less than they could. Sometimes even more, if another part is mismatched too.

 

Im talkin heads and intake ill get the rest after those 2 keys parts. The compression will be about 11:1 tho. Im rdy to buy heads next week if im going with these.

 

So does anyone know much about porting Fast burns.

 

I'm not a big fan of the Fastburns, i think they are way overrated. For the money there are much better heads.

 

Like? cmon give me some ideas money doesnt matter right now i just want real good heads got to be ok for the street also though.

 

Well i have some brand new still in box ProTopline heads for sale, they are some of the best street heads out there.

http://www.webpages.uidaho.edu/~osie4078/proheads.htm

 

I heard fast burns were better then those cause i was looking to get those at first but i do want aluminum heads.

 

Well Fastburns have 210cc runners which IMHO is way to big for the street or anything under 400cid engines.

 

Ill be doin some racin also and not driving too much.

 

Have you decided upon an RPM band for operation? Heads, intake, cam, converter are the biggest things to match. You cant decide on an intake and heads till you know how radical of a cam, you cant get the converter till you know what cam. You should decide what you want to do, what you will use to do it, BEFORE you buy anything.

 

I want max hp and rpm out of my bottom end and still be streetable i was going to buy the cam last to match my heads and intake. i want like a 2500 to 6500 range

 

I think you need to do some research and decide what you really want to do first. How much you want to spend, where you want, power...

You keep using contridictive terms, streetable, max horspower, 11:1 compression...

 

Ive been research im going to spend what it takes to get 500 hp at the wheels. Why cant some1 just suggest a good head for the street and strip not too hard . Would you like to know the kind of oil im goin to run also i can get the other stuff to match later i just want heads right now that will flow really well that will be somewhat streetable.

 

Let me get this straight you want 500RWHP, NA?

 

As much as i can get actually and still be able to make it from gas station to gas station lol.

 

A good head is the AFR 195.

I'm going to stop relying now because it is obvious you have no clue what you are doing. Do some more research please. You will find you are dreaming :lala: :lala:

500RWHP, you couldn't drive it period!

 

umm are you kidding me you think you kno what ur talkin about. look how u replied to my previous post u had no clue. Kandied91z 383 had 500hp so look again that might of just been with a lil nitrous also. So you need to do some research i was planning of going with the fast burns and miniram III. Cam With 1.6 rockers, the specs are:

.537 / .544
230/236 @ .050
112 LSA
108 ICA

damn your killin me

 

Now if we actually got some1 in here that knew about fast burns and if it was a good idea to port them and not ask questions that are not even needed then i would actually get some good info out of this. Look at my last post you made a ignorant remark then some one knowledgeable replied and we had alot of good info in that post.

 

Ok, i don't know what i am talking about, now your talking nitrous!!!

 

Just forget it ill pm some1 that knows there **** i said i wanted 500hp at the wheels and i seen alot of combos with 450 that wernt really radical. So if that is imposible wow maybe im 50 hp off would a 50 shot kill anything. Is all you do is reply looking to start a flame war.

 

500 crank hp and 500 whp are 2 different things. I am with the others on this one. You need to look at what you are considering.

here's my "race" engine plans that i'm tossing around. The street intentions of this engine are nothing more than drive to the track and back for the most part.

Isky solid roller cam:
Lift w/ 1.5 rockers: .548"/.557"
Dur: 308/314
.050"Duration : 262/272
Lobe Center: 110
RPM Range: 3200-7500

AFR 210 heads, Isky 9965 springs, yada yada
Fully forged 400-based platform
4.11 rear gears, 3500 stall

yea, you need to reconsider your intentions. Especially if you say NA.

 

I asked you if this was without power adders and you said yes.

I'm not trying to flame you, your goals are just outrageous. If you ever get 500RWHP and hook, your entire car will break.

I'm trying to help, you because it is obvious you need it. I mean you don't even know what a good head is.

To build 500RWHP your looking at $6000+ in the motor and atleast another $4000, to make your car handle it with out breaking everything.

I know alot of people are making pretty good power, but they spend tons of money and race them.

 

Didnt i just say all that??? oh yeh forgot 3.27 rear end who cant change that thought you guys act like this stuff is set in stone. Wait you left out the size of the carb oh no you cant have a engine with out a carb or throttle body. Also since when dont i know what the diff between crank HP and wheel hp u must think im 16 yrs old are you kiddin me . I grew up around cars and my dad builds classics for a living and i built a few older style blocks pre 87 so i think i know what im doin somewhat.

 

Plain and simple:

How much are you going to spend?

 

Please just stop assuming you know me im will be running the 5 speed for now till it blows then 6 speed and im getting a cage. I also have every suspension part just about but a torque arm.

 

Also to get 500rwhp you will need atleast 600hp on the motor probably closer to 625 after beefing everything up to handle the power.

 

I will spend 10 grand if i have to i make good money now and will wait till next yr if it takes it. Look up i said ill spend what it takes.

 

Yep you need research. Your going to need an upgraded 6sp, new rear, SFC's, torque arm....

 

Dumb *** i just said i had every suspension part right now but a torque arm damn wth I have sfc's alrdy and i said i was gettin a cage anyway. Please stop with the BS replies thanx to you my thread is going to get locked now.

 

This isn't magic, just research what others have done, and what you really want to do. Thats all, just plan on replacing lots of broken parts.

 

YEs i will thanx for the reply just thought i would post for once ill have to forget about that ill get the info i need on my own. Why is it the people in the suspension section are so cool ill just talk in there.

 

i think you'll have to do some more searching for heads/cam to get to 500RWHP.

I wont pretend to know exactly what I'm talking about, but I've got a decent starting base I think.

This is to my understanding --

You'll need a 4-bolt main, or splayed 2 bolt mains for the block.

Forged internals because at 500HP NA that's ALOT of stress on the rotating assembly.

If you want to keep this streetable AT ALL you'll want a gear ratio in the low 3.xx's

I wont go into the suspension, brakes, chassis mods you'll have to do, you seem to know all this already.

Now I'm assuming that you'll want this to be a high-way warrior, not a stop-to-go demon (city driving).. so you'll probably want it to rev to 7000-7500RPM. Heads and throttle body to match... Fastburn wont do it, I too have heard that porting them can decrease performance if not done by a professional who knows what he's doing. No offense to Sitting Bull, but I dont think that the home-porters should do it.

Your horsepower is basically all going to revolve around your heads/cam choice. The carb, throttle body, exhaust, etc, etc will have to be hella stout and well engineered to keep it streetable and still make 500 to the wheels NA.

But if you are thinking of using nitrous, then you had better say that before you want to build the engine, you build an engine AROUND that kind of stuff, not after you built the engine.

 

I do have a 4 bolt block and forged rods all the good stuff. Just cause i dont know about all the heads out there or have tried them out doesnt mean i dont know how something works. You are kinda right about my setup but i was just lookin for a great head cause i havnt used many other heads then stock. I do want to kick some butt on the street when i take it out occasionally but mostly want to spank all the street cars at the track well alot of them at least

 

Invest in some AFR's then. Dollar versus output, the best choice for the situation.

 

FYI all SBC rods even stock are forged, you need really good rods and bolts, a forged crank, bullet proof valvetrain (titanium retainers), a really light rotating assembly (expensive)... A huge solid roller cam, huge heads AFR 220's... Atleast 4.10 gears...

Lots of stuff that needs to be researched so you get a combo that will work together.

 

AFR's do look nice! The price also looks comparable which ones would be best? They have alot of different ones. I was lookin at these 195cc Street Heads, L98 Angle Plug w/heat riser, 68cc

 

I'd just get one of these if you don't want to research SBC 454 Crate Motor
or one of these SBC 427 Crate Motor

The 427 make 505hp at the crank, so your still way short of your 625 crank hp goal.

Good luck

 

Not enough head to meet your loafty goals.

 

ME Leigh stop replyin your wastin space i was getin somewhere. I got have a lightweight crank and forged 4340 h beam rods and arp bolts and your and idiot if you think all stock rods are forged.
OK i will go bigger !

 

ill get these only a little over 200 more
220cc Racing Head, Angle Plug, Standard Exhaust 1061

 

Ok that proves it, please research something, anything! Again all stock SBC rods are forged.

 

Where is your research show me that all factory rods are forged.

 

get 210s. They have better flow at lower rpms, with small loss to the 220s at higher rpms.

As for the rods, watch out how you go tossing around the term "Forged."

 

Do you even know what forged means?

forged, forg·ing, forg·es
v. tr.

To form (metal, for example) by heating in a forge and beating or hammering into shape.
To form (metal) by a mechanical or hydraulic press.

Here read, the do some research please, i don't know why i am doing it for you . http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/82378/

 

Yes i think i do lmao you prob think the block is forged also. Anyway when they call rods forged they are usually talkin about they were reheated. Also after market rods are alot better metal.

 

No a block is cast, molten iron is poured into a mold and allowed to cool, then the block is removed from the mold. Rods are forged because they are first cast into a blank that is close to the final shape. Then they are heated to a semi-molten, or amorphous state and forced into a mold under extreme pressure to result in the final shape. There is a big difference.

 

Yes and there is a big difference between my forged 4340 h beams and stock rods.

 

No kidding aftermarket rods are made of better materials and designs, thats why there is an aftermarket. If stock parts were good enough why would people need to replace them?

 

Hmm and you think stock rods are good by this statement.Well not good enough for me. Non of my parts are stock.