Here's a few pics I threw up on my Cardomain page of the LT1 aluminum heads I'm working on to put on my 305. All done with an electric drill and a round file that I cut in half

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/623519/5.

Tips/criticisms welcomed..

 

Sionce I have Spyware and CSS programs blocked, I can't get that Cardomain page to load.

Can you attach the photos here (under 100Kb)?

 

Sure, the reason I didn't was because I posted this at Cz28 as well and you can't load pics there so I just made a page on my cardomain site and linked to it. Well, that and the fact that I don't think we are supposed to attach more than 3 photos...well, here's 4.

 

2

 

3...

 

last one!

 

great work in progress. looks they'll turn out very nice.

 

Were you planning on staying with the stock valve sizes? I was fortunate enough to be able to cut the iron LT1 heads for larger valves without having to remove/replace seats. Here's how mine turned out at 192 cc intake volumes (before polishing):

 

...

 

So you are saying grind the red area down to match the green area?

 

Ya

 

Gotta, thanks

 

That's where the round file in the electric drill comes in. Really helps you square up the corners of the intake port roof, from the gasket surface to deep into the port.

 

Cool, thanks for the responses so far.

As for going to larger valves...its not going to save me anything by staying with the same valve seats. The price I was quoted ($275) didn't matter what size valves I was going to go with. I didn't really have many options with them...asked about using the stock valve size and he said same price. 3-angle job.

So I'm probably going to stick with stock valves because I don't want to spend $275 unless I have to. If I have to, then I'll go with larger valves (2.00/1.55 if anything).

I'll work on trying to level that spot on those intake ports as well. Btw, Vader how did you cc your ports, what did you use to block off the bowls?

ME Leigh, are you planning on doing the same thing as well?

 

Use a valve on one end and a old CD-ROM to block off the gasket end of the port. Use a little Vaseoline to seal up the valve guide, cd rom and valve face. if it leaks water during the ccing you'll get wrong results.

 

Good call, thanks a lot. Off to buy a graduated cylinder of some sorts tomorrow.

Stock, these have a 170cc intake runner volume, correct?

 

I'm not sure yet, i kinda want to build up my 305 until i get an LS1. I want to save as much weight as i can for AutoX, but i don't know about welding up the passages, tell me how it turns out. I can't decide if i want to wait for and LS1, port my 416's, get 113 Al heads or go with some modded LT1 heads. I really want to get below 3000 #'s i'm at 3140 now so i got a ways to go.

Let me know how your heads turn out on your 305.

Leigh

 

I'm all for reducing weight as well (its one of the big benefits I see for this swap for the money), but I'm afraid my car is nowhere near as light as yours.

Whenever I get all of this done, I'll be putting up a nice big thread on it. I still have a little ways to go though... I need to get the intake modified (I don't have confidence in myself), need to finish porting, then weld and mill the heads, buy headers, etc. I'm trying to gather all of the small nickel-and-dime stuff (throttle cable bracket, hose fittings, etc.) so I just have the big stuff to do. Plus I need to find someone willing to trade me a 212/218 or 218/224 cam for my 222/232 cam. Then I also need SFCs, and a rebuilt trans, and a much higher stalled torque converter, and new rear end gears....etc. etc.

I also want to run new hard fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay to get rid of the rusty ones there, and I need to swap my fuel pump for the Walbro 255 sitting here, and now I've discovered my fuel neck could possibly be cracked so I duct-taped that today. I always wanted to convert to an LS1 plastic tank as well, and that would give me a new rubber filler neck. Everything seems to be connecting into one huge project that will never get done.

Though, I'm out of school in about another 2 months, so I'll have plenty of time on my hands and hopefully a lot more money (holiday season is crazy at Best Buy). My goal is to have it all ready for mid-spring. That's not going to include the transmission stuff anymore though I think. That will just be motor/fuel stuff.