Hey fellas,

While back I discover my ole L98 has
a spun bearing if not more.

With possible crankshaft damage and or rod damage
I need to fix these issues.

So, I research my depleted bank account and I got approx
$600.00 to get er runnin'

what would I be looken at for a machined crank or a new crank?

i know inkow .. if i got the motor out I might as well go all out and do a full rebuild.

however, I jus need this car running

Not gunna drag it out, need to get to work
after i get some paychecks then I can get serious about performance.

So keep in mind .. when u post I jus need her to run and
be reliable for 600 dollars??


whatta ya think??

 

You can get a "crank kit", which consists of just a reground crank and a set of bearings to match, for around $350-400. Look around locally for the brand name "Standard Crankshaft". http://www.standardcrankshaft.com Pull the motor out, flip it upside down, pop the pan, swap out the crank, stuff it back in; that might all fit in $600 for the kit, plus gaskets and fluids and some tool rentals.

Don't try to fix it without pulling the motor. You'll regret it. It's easier than you think to yank the motor out.

 

Other option is getting a used shortblock and transplanting your heads. That would be alot cheaper. You may have metal shards in the block that wipe out the new crank, ask me how i know.

 

The shop that did my heads charges $600 to take my stock L98 shortblock, dis-assemble, bore .030 over, and reassemble using factory quality parts.

 

You do have a point the metal in the block.


Chances are; im keeping the block, heads and
tranny.

The crank kit is logical .. it will be compatible with
my L98? .. the top end will handle a new crank.

sh*t, if it comes with bearings and ready to go .. that
will be very easy for me.


were pulling the block, after we mic the old crank .. if its good then obviously thats the way to go.

I have all access to specail tools and a engine hoist,
and spacey garage and enuff beer to last us to X-mas

 

Sounds like a party .. I mean a plan LOL

 

Well,

there is nothen like men comming together drinking some brewin and screwin' with cars


*** BLESS AMERICA
(congrats BUSH)

 

if you spun a rod bearing that rod needs to be replaced or resized for it to last any amount of time. if it was a crank bearing the block will need to be line honed.

i have seen people put in a crank kit without reparing the rod after they spun a rod bearing & get away with it for alittle while, until they leaned on the motor & the same bearing gave up again.
if it stacked a rod bearing then that rod is trashed & without replacement or a resize you would be lucky for it to last long enough to get to 50 mph the first time.

 

Yea, I understand

I could replace the one rod??

If all 7 others are intact and in good shape

is that the best way to go??

I know this in nonsense to a person who is building for horsepower, I just need transportation.

Thanks for the help

 

i have been where your at, bought the cheapest parts i could get just to get it back on the road, so i know what your wanting to do.

replacing any rods that have spun bearings & reusing the others would be fine. rebuilt rods don't cost that much, of course you will have to pull the head to get the piston out & have the old rod pressed off & the new rod pressed on, i would go ahead & get a full gasket set & pull both heads so you have matching head gaskets & if you have or can get a valve spring tool i would replace the valve seals too as the seals come with a full gasket set. if you don't have a valve spring tool, you can rent 1, it shouldn't cost you too much for a few hours of use.
when you go back together with it, be sure its all clean.

 

I think your approaching this the wrong way.

Here is what you SHOULD do.

1) Yank your motor out
2) Take intake, manifolds, heads off, cam, timing chain, oil pan, pistons + rods, and crank out.

3) Inspect the saddles for any sort of damage or deflection. Drop the block off to the machine shop. Have them MIC the cyls to ensure they are still round. Install new cam bearings. If not, you may need to bore them. (else you'll get some crazy blow by!)

4) Throw out the stock pistons and rods. Look for some PM rods,
"X" rods, etc. Use ARP waveloc bolts.

5) Run down to autozone, and get a rebuilt cast crank. $126.00
specs will be included. Get clevite77 or federal H bearings.. (about 40.00 vs 80.00)

6) Call summit, and get a set of hyper pistons. Figure out what
you want for a compression ratio based on your heads.

7) Finish assembly with new felpro gaskets, and a mellings high volume oil pump. If you wanted a better cam, nows the time to consider getting one. Ensure the lift doesnt exceed the springs on your heads.

-- Joe

 

tho your idea is more appealing,

DENN has been in my shoes and prolly got his
car going for undre $600.00

I knew the block was comming out,
but i didnt wanna touch the heads
Im gunna talk to my friend see what he thinks.

We have a micrometer and we know how to use em,
going to machine shop is just asking to spend money.

 

If you pull the pistons out of the block, there's no way in hell it'll run again for $600.

Pull the motor, flip it over, look at it. If the rod bearing didn't actually spin, i.e. if it's still in place and the rod is undamaged, you can do what I said and it'll be good.... subject to how much metal there is in the motor. If the rod is damaged, you need about twice that much money. It might be possible to pull one head and one piston and one rod and change out one set of rings, in addition to doing the crank thing; but that's seriously hilljack, and not real likely to work well; although it might at least get the car back on the road.

 

do not get a HV pump . After 4k it will have all the oil at the top end, and none to dispense on the bottom.

So here's some food for thought that I learned from the good fellahs here when I spun some bearings.... metal shards get spit out of the bearings (which is how they get spun), and then that metal shard runs around your engine, if you're lucky it goes right into the fuel filter.

If you're not lucky (like most that spin bearings, obviously lol) then the metal shard will go run around and put grooves in your other bearings, carving out more metal shards from other bearings... and that process just keeps going until you fix the bearings.

Problem though, even if you replace the bearings, those little metal shards (they look like metal sand really) will still be in your block, attached to the wall more than likely, waiting for some oil to come back and loosen it up so it can continue it's destruction.

So unless you want to do this again, you should get your block (and heads) hot tanked... those metal shard will hide mostly in the oil passages (like in the crank). But since you'll need a new crank anyways that shouldnt be a problem.

I'd suggest taking the block to a machine shop and just having them hot tank it for yah. And tell them that you spun a bearing, so they'll probably suggest a couple other things for you... yes, they are trying to get some more money out of you.... no, they arent useless things that they're suggesting either! Just explain that you're on a budget, they'll help you do the minimum to get it back and be reliable.

 

Are you high? I've been running a HV pump for 5 years. Hell, everyone I know runs a HV pump.

He's 80% sure the blocks fine. Whatever. Good luck with it. If he wants to slap a crank it in it and be done, whatever. I just thought it would be good to do it right.

-- Joe

 

my bad Antheses, it's 6k, not 4k. I didnt mean it as a flame towards you at all... just didnt want him to go out and run his motor dry or something.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...gh+volume+pump

good reading

 

What your refering to only happens in boats and stationary objects (power generators, etc). Unless hes holding it a 6k+ with a throttle stop (or going roundy-round) he won't have an issue.

On a street/strip car, since he'd be accelerating, the oil is gonna all be around the pickup anyway.

-- Joe

 

Gotta diffrent approach now.


Talked to a engine shop.


Say I score a short block 350 without heads
for around the price i want.

Throw the L98 heads on there and the TPI
hook up the tranny and ..


Whatta ya guys think ?? .. nice heads, good condition.

 

wont those engine shops buy your
ole block and rebuild em and sell em later??

can I use my old engine as credit to
the replacement?

 

I'd say, ask them what what size pistons they are (not bore, dish/dome volume) and if the block is roller or not.

Again, you can do it right, or do it wrong and be out $600 bux. Up to you.

-- Joe

 

So you think the right way is to stay
with my L98??


this is why I brought it up, I have $600,I have space
and I have time.

I need to think this threw the best possible way.

 

If it is not a roller block, I certainly wouldnt give them my old block. They are coming out ahead on that deal all the way around. Maybe you should just look around for a used shortblock in good shape, always a decent option. Just make sure to buy it from a reputable shop.

 

Its a roller block.
however, I decided to keep my L98


ill let ya know when the block is sittin on a stand.

thanks for all your help