Ok, here is ther deal. I have a 88 Camaro Convertible 305 TBI. Anyway, the oil pump froze up last summer and the motor seized. I towed it to a mechanic and he put in a used motor. I didn't want to do that but I need transportation and the price was right. Anyway, I got the car back and it ran great. Low idle, no bogging down, etc. The first week I had it, I got a service engine light. I couldn't take it back the mechanic because he wwent on vacation for the season. I grounded out the A&B test terminals and ran the fault codes. I got two codes. A Code 43(Electroic Spark Control) and a Code 32(EGR System Malfunction). I replaced the knock sensor but I still got both fault codes. I thought the CAT might be the problem but I had it checked at a muffle shop and it was fine. One day, the engine froze up. It just got tight and wouldn't turn except very very slowly. It took jumping the car and using a Prolong Super-Lubricant Engine Additive to unfreeze the motor. After I have unfroze the motor, I took the car off the road and I won't drive it intil I know what is wrong with it. I changed the EGR Valve and then Code 32 went away yet Code 43 remained. I decided to check out my Electronic Spark Control Module to see what the problem was. The 5 wires going in the connector from the harness to the module had no insulation. They weren't touching but I figured it would be a good idea to replace it. I went to the dealer and it cost me $42 to buy a new connector with wires. I cut off the old connector and replaced it. I took the car for a spin a couple of times and it still ran like usual. Since the car has always been registered and insured, I decided to take it for a longer drive. When the engine heated up, the Service Engine light came on again. I turned off the car and grounded out A&B and got a Code 43 again. I then disconnected the connector from the Electronic Spark Control Module and then tried to start the car. The car wouldn't start. I reattached it and the car started right up. I am guessing that if the module was faulty, the car wouldn't start at all. Well, summer is coming and I would really love to drive my car again. I have a regular exuast except I have a straight pipe in place of the one-in/two-out muffler. I don't think that would cause this problem but who knows. ANYONE that could help me with this problem would be much appreciated. I am finally stumped.

Your Fellow Third-Gen Fan,
Jax

 

88,

The '43' wouldn't likely be caused by any changes in the exhaust.

Take a closer look at the ignition system. The ESC module and EST system rely on the HEI module for an RPM signal. If the connections to/from the HEI module in the distributor are anything like what you described for the ESC module wiring, you may have some more repairs to do. You also need to be certain that you have the correct detonation (knock) sensor and that the wiring to it is intact. A faulty ignition coil primary circuit can also affect the ESC module.

I'll check diagrams and see if I can find anything else related.

------------------
Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Ok, Please keep me posted on this ASAP. I drove it today and the darn engine light came on again. If I try and give it more than 3/4 throttle, I hear a little 'quick clicking' in the engine. I don't know if you want to call it a knock or a valve tap. It only happen for maybe 4 or 5 seconds then stops. Not all ther time but most of the time, the light comes on after the sound goes away and it stays on until I turn the car off. When I turn the car off then back on, the light is off. Theres some more info for you. I check the wiring tomorrow morning and let you know how it looks. Anyone else with ideas are welcome to reply.

- Jax

 

is the brown wire plugged in that ya disconnect to set the timing?

Also to are all the connections to the back of the distrubutor ok?

Kat