how do i get rid of the air in my Coolant system
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 694
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From: British Columbia,Canada
how do i get rid of the air in my Coolant system
i am running hotter since i changed from antifreeze to water and someone said it could be because of air in the system,how do i get rid of the air.Thanks
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1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Idaho Falls, ID, USA
maybe I'm wrong, but I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point AND a lower freezing point that water.
Anyway, to get the air out of the system, leave the radiator cap off and let the thermostat open, the air pockets should excape through the open radiator.
If I am right about the boiling points, then you could be running hotter because the water is actually boiling and steam has a higher specific heat than water at the same temp. 100*C steam needs to dissipate a lot more energy than 100*C liquid water because it has to change physical states. Remember, Water is only good from 0-100*C (32-212*F) anything outside that will crack your block or turn to steam which doesn't cool worth a damn.
Anyway, to get the air out of the system, leave the radiator cap off and let the thermostat open, the air pockets should excape through the open radiator.
If I am right about the boiling points, then you could be running hotter because the water is actually boiling and steam has a higher specific heat than water at the same temp. 100*C steam needs to dissipate a lot more energy than 100*C liquid water because it has to change physical states. Remember, Water is only good from 0-100*C (32-212*F) anything outside that will crack your block or turn to steam which doesn't cool worth a damn.
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SS,
It's not uncommon to have air "appear" in the cooling system after refilling.
This happens even if you are careful about bleeding air, since most people don't use deaerated water to mix coolant. The water will deaerate itself after several heat/cool cycles, but the liberated air will cause a "bubble" in the system, requiring you to refill the system at least once after the initial filling. If you really want to avoid this, you can boil the water you use to mix coolant for about fifteen minutes, then bottle in with no air space present in a sealed container.
I'm ****-retentive about stuff like that, but I'm not THAT ****. I ususally just watch the coolant level for several days after a service, and top off as necessary with clean mixture.
It's even worse on an LT1/4 and the Buick 231s.
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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
It's not uncommon to have air "appear" in the cooling system after refilling.
This happens even if you are careful about bleeding air, since most people don't use deaerated water to mix coolant. The water will deaerate itself after several heat/cool cycles, but the liberated air will cause a "bubble" in the system, requiring you to refill the system at least once after the initial filling. If you really want to avoid this, you can boil the water you use to mix coolant for about fifteen minutes, then bottle in with no air space present in a sealed container.
I'm ****-retentive about stuff like that, but I'm not THAT ****. I ususally just watch the coolant level for several days after a service, and top off as necessary with clean mixture.
It's even worse on an LT1/4 and the Buick 231s.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 886
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From: Raleigh, NC, USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 86ZRICHIE:
maybe I'm wrong, but I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point AND a lower freezing point that water.
Anyway, to get the air out of the system, leave the radiator cap off and let the thermostat open, the air pockets should excape through the open radiator.
If I am right about the boiling points, then you could be running hotter because the water is actually boiling and steam has a higher specific heat than water at the same temp. 100*C steam needs to dissipate a lot more energy than 100*C liquid water because it has to change physical states. Remember, Water is only good from 0-100*C (32-212*F) anything outside that will crack your block or turn to steam which doesn't cool worth a damn.</font>
maybe I'm wrong, but I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point AND a lower freezing point that water.
Anyway, to get the air out of the system, leave the radiator cap off and let the thermostat open, the air pockets should excape through the open radiator.
If I am right about the boiling points, then you could be running hotter because the water is actually boiling and steam has a higher specific heat than water at the same temp. 100*C steam needs to dissipate a lot more energy than 100*C liquid water because it has to change physical states. Remember, Water is only good from 0-100*C (32-212*F) anything outside that will crack your block or turn to steam which doesn't cool worth a damn.</font>
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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The best way to do this (Or pack the radiator) is to:
Fill it to the top. With the cap off and engine idleing.
Fell the upper hose, as soon as you feel it getting warm (pressure) you're ready to start.
On a MPI/TPI grab two quarters or a nickel and quarter... whatever out of your pocket and shove it between the minimum air screw and the throttle blade... in normal terms raise the RPM's to about 3,000 RPM. You will notice the level in the radiator is lower, so fill it up, but never go below the rpm before putting the cap back on, or it will all pour out and be a waste (unless the dog next door which likes to shyt in your yard drinks it)
As for the LT1 there's a diff meathod with 'bleeders' in the intake, but this is a 3rd gen so mum.. (actually not sure,but know its req'd)
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
Fill it to the top. With the cap off and engine idleing.
Fell the upper hose, as soon as you feel it getting warm (pressure) you're ready to start.
On a MPI/TPI grab two quarters or a nickel and quarter... whatever out of your pocket and shove it between the minimum air screw and the throttle blade... in normal terms raise the RPM's to about 3,000 RPM. You will notice the level in the radiator is lower, so fill it up, but never go below the rpm before putting the cap back on, or it will all pour out and be a waste (unless the dog next door which likes to shyt in your yard drinks it)
As for the LT1 there's a diff meathod with 'bleeders' in the intake, but this is a 3rd gen so mum.. (actually not sure,but know its req'd)
------------------
'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Another trick that sometimes works is to loosen the heater hose a bit while the engine is running to let some trapped air out. What usually works for me is running the engine for 30 minutes or so after it's warmed up with the radiator cap off. Adding coolant as necessary. Then, like he said above, check it often for the next week or two.
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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro
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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
From: Idaho Falls, ID, USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Enkil:
Any time the temperature of the water would get that hot the coolant would simply go into the overfill resevoir, not crack the block. And water heats up / cools down faster than antifreeze does.
</font>
Any time the temperature of the water would get that hot the coolant would simply go into the overfill resevoir, not crack the block. And water heats up / cools down faster than antifreeze does.
</font>
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Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 175
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From: Round Rock, Texas, U.S.A.
You can't use just water though, it will rust out the radiator, you have to use some sort of a rust preventive liquid to mix in with the water, why are you using water anyways, antifreeze isnt really expensive?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 694
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From: British Columbia,Canada
I have a liquid that is mixed with my water some im covered there.Mission Raceway where i race does not allow antifreeze on vehicles racing at the track.
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
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