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->Code 25 and antifreeze link... related? If not, need help with two more probs.

Old Jun 17, 2001 | 05:54 PM
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Xenodrgn's Avatar
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
->Code 25 and antifreeze link... related? If not, need help with two more probs.

EDIT:Antifreeze LEAK... sorry... I've got alot on my mind

#1 I get an intermittent code 25, it'll come on and go off, very randomly and without warning, i notice it most at highway speeds. Code 25 is Manifold Air Temperature (temp hi). Can any tell me how to fix this? When the light comes on it does not seem to affect performance.

#2 I have an antifreeze leak coming from the passengers side firewall, it drips right down onto the y-pipe. Any ideas on how to fix or stop that?

FYI - I had the entire intake off to fix a ****ty injector not too long ago...

Also, when you turn the key to on, and then start, what exactly is the Check Engine Light supposed to do? ... It's only supposed to be on while cranking, correct? because I think mine goes on when it's in 'on' and the car isn't running. Is that just telling me that warning codes have been thrown?

Please help me! I need this car tomorrow morning...

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)

[This message has been edited by Xenodrgn (edited June 17, 2001).]
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 06:28 PM
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Xeno,

One item at a time, as they are listed:

1. The 25 DTC is for a high temperature fault of the MAT sensor, as you have stated. A shorted wiring harness (zero ohms across the sensor) will cause this. A failing sensor (again, shorted) will cause this. The resistance at various temperatures is as follwos:



2. The coolant leak could be caused by an intake gasket that is not sealed or a loose intake that should have the bolts re-torqued. It could also be a freeze plug on the rear of the cylinder head beginning to leak, or a loose hose connection at the heater core stand pipes.

3. When the ignition is turned on, the MIL lamp should come on briefly (about ½ second), turn off briefly (another ½ second, then turn on and remain on until the engine is running. It doesn't only illuminate when the engine is cranking. The brief flash on initial power-up is a signal that the ECM has passed some basic power-up self diagnostics, has a valid EPROM inserted, and has no shorted outputs.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 06:58 PM
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Vader,

Thanks a million. The leak was from the one of the heater core hoses, As soon as it cools I'll tighen everything up and see what goes down.

As for the MAT, I have no way to check the resistance, so if it goes that far I'll probably take it to a mech, but lets start with some basics. It's obvious that wires and such get moved around when your working on a car, so the sensor could be shorted. Only one problem, where is it? My Chiltons manual (BTW, DON'T BUY CHILTONS MANUALS!!! I have come across so many mistakes and misprints... Don't get me wrong, it's helpful, but sometimes it a pain.... buy the service manual or Helm (as was originally recommended to me)... I have no experience with Helm, but I'd imagine it can't be worse than Chiltons...). My Chiltons manual doesn't show where it is... I -think- it's the one that screws into air intake snorkle. I'm not sure though. Someone wanna tell me where it is on a '85 2.8L Camaro?

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
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