Voltmeter dips when stopped at light
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Voltmeter dips when stopped at light
Alright, sometimes when i take the load off the engine (press clutch in) my voltmeter will drop to halfway between 13 and 8, doesn't happen when i'm moving, and when i put load back onto the engine or i rev it up, it rises again nice and fast. the alternator is less then 5 months old. i'm thinking its either my battery or theres not enough tension on the serp belt.
anyone have any ideas?
this just started happening about a month ago(when it started getting cold)
anyone have any ideas?
this just started happening about a month ago(when it started getting cold)
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
My 3.1 was doing that too. The voltage was fine when driving but dipped below 12 when at idle. I tried replacing the belt, and it didn't help any. About a month later the Alternator died.
If you bought a reman it could be going out on you again. I went through 3 remanufactured alternators on my Formula before I got one that lasted more than 6-7 months.
If you bought a reman it could be going out on you again. I went through 3 remanufactured alternators on my Formula before I got one that lasted more than 6-7 months.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
damn i was kinda hoping it was the battery not the alternator, it has i 1 year warranty but if it goes i'm gonna get a new one, did the new alternator fix the problem?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Originally posted by kretos
damn i was kinda hoping it was the battery not the alternator, it has i 1 year warranty but if it goes i'm gonna get a new one, did the new alternator fix the problem?
damn i was kinda hoping it was the battery not the alternator, it has i 1 year warranty but if it goes i'm gonna get a new one, did the new alternator fix the problem?
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by kretos
lol my cars kinda screwy i'm idling at 1300-1500 rpm
so thats not the problem
lol my cars kinda screwy i'm idling at 1300-1500 rpm
so thats not the problem
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Do you have any other "power draws", like rear window defroster or front defroster with the fans on full? Is this when it's dark out?
It is NOT uncommon to see a power drop during winter when you have most of your accessories on while idling. I really noticed this when I installed smaller pullies too.
Also, the alternator you installed may have been a bit smaller than you should have installed. I prefer to install the highest amperage alternator available.
It is NOT uncommon to see a power drop during winter when you have most of your accessories on while idling. I really noticed this when I installed smaller pullies too.
Also, the alternator you installed may have been a bit smaller than you should have installed. I prefer to install the highest amperage alternator available.
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From: Avondale, AZ, used to be seattle, washington
Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
you also have to think, the alt doesn't make full 14volts until 2,000rpm, thats why it dips and your lights are dimmer at idle compared to crusing speed.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Originally posted by Squeeks83
you also have to think, the alt doesn't make full 14volts until 2,000rpm, thats why it dips and your lights are dimmer at idle compared to crusing speed.
you also have to think, the alt doesn't make full 14volts until 2,000rpm, thats why it dips and your lights are dimmer at idle compared to crusing speed.
Every car/truck/motorcycle I've ever had has made 14 volts at idle. I'm not talking about the reading on the gauge in the dash either. This is using a voltmeter. Yes, if you turn on all the electrical devices the reading will drop, but it still shouldn't drop below 12.5-13 volts.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
this alternators been in for about 10 months now, never had a problem until a about a month and a half ago, i try not to draw any extra power(like rear defogger) unless i have to, its more common with the lights on, but it does happen during the day aswell.
i'm just gonna go out and get another alternator with a better warranty(this one was 1 year and the reciept got stolen) and higher output
i'm just gonna go out and get another alternator with a better warranty(this one was 1 year and the reciept got stolen) and higher output
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
I have a similar problem, when i turn on my turn signals, the voltage on the gauge, drops and fluctuates below 12. Some times it doesn't do it but it does it most of the time. Also some times when i start the car the voltage is reading low on the gauge.
I don't have anything that requires electriclity hooked up, just lights, ignition thats all.
Could the problem be the flasher or the alternator, voltage regulator. I don't really want to was my performance money on a new alt if i don't have to, thanks.
I don't have anything that requires electriclity hooked up, just lights, ignition thats all.
Could the problem be the flasher or the alternator, voltage regulator. I don't really want to was my performance money on a new alt if i don't have to, thanks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
its most likely your alternator,these things do die, and its better to get a new one and be on the safe side, then to have it crap out on the side of the road and need a tow
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From: MN
Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
Engine: V6, V8
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
I have a similar problem. Mine drops down to ~13v when at idle with the lights and defrost/heat on-(not the window). I notice a difference in the engine as well- runs rough. I lost two batteries because the car was running off of the battery at this level.
I bought a new battery and now watch the voltage with a real voltmeter. It seems to drop on it's own but usually as described above.
I have the 2.8 as well, it must be a common problem with some kind of resolution.
I have a "new alternator" when I bought the car. I'll have to pull the alt off of my F-41 to see if that makes a difference.
I bought a new battery and now watch the voltage with a real voltmeter. It seems to drop on it's own but usually as described above.I have the 2.8 as well, it must be a common problem with some kind of resolution.
I have a "new alternator" when I bought the car. I'll have to pull the alt off of my F-41 to see if that makes a difference. Thread Starter
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
just because the alternator was new when you bought the car, doesn't mean its still good, as i said mines only 9-10 months old, and i'm gonna bet money that a new one fixes it.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
How hot does your alternator get? I had one that did something like that most of the summer (although it didnt dip as low) and it got VERY hot to the touch... I swapped it out for another, and it was above 13V all the time and it never got as hot as the old alt did.
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From: MN
Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
Engine: V6, V8
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Thanks for the info.
I bet that could be an overheating problem.
I'll hang onto this until I can check this out. Besides, nothin's gonna overheat at -10 F. I'm letting my truck take the brunt of the salt this year as well.
I was told that the connector to the alternator can cause problems too. But I haven't been able to find a good one to try yet.
I bet that could be an overheating problem.
I'll hang onto this until I can check this out. Besides, nothin's gonna overheat at -10 F. I'm letting my truck take the brunt of the salt this year as well.
I was told that the connector to the alternator can cause problems too. But I haven't been able to find a good one to try yet.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Originally posted by Scorpner
I was told that the connector to the alternator can cause problems too. But I haven't been able to find a good one to try yet.
I was told that the connector to the alternator can cause problems too. But I haven't been able to find a good one to try yet.
Also make sure the alternator is grounded well. Clean off the outside of the bolt holes on the bracket. I've seen a bad ground do strange things.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 966
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
I have also been told that cheap alternators do not have the charging capability at low RPMs that say a AC/Delco or other expensive name brands do. It is not all about more total amp output either. If you can't get the amps at low RPMs it doesn't matter how many you get at 2000-2500 RPMs. I know my next alternator will be a rebuilt AC/Delco.
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From: mocksville nc
Car: '68 corvette '73 Corvette
Engine: 427 454
Transmission: TH400
have any of you had an alternator drain the battery overnight? i have unhooked everything except it from the battery and with a meter it still shows a drain until i take the hot wire off.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
It will if theres a short in there, or a resistor or some other electrical component doing odd things.
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From: I said that when I was sober...ish
Car: 1985 Mustang GT
Engine: hamsters
Transmission: a hamster wheel
Originally posted by kretos
no the alternator won't drain a battery when the cars off, its some other power source.
no the alternator won't drain a battery when the cars off, its some other power source.
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From: MN
Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
Engine: V6, V8
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Originally posted by bru333
I've heard that too, but haven't had personal experience with that connector being bad.
Also make sure the alternator is grounded well. Clean off the outside of the bolt holes on the bracket. I've seen a bad ground do strange things.
I've heard that too, but haven't had personal experience with that connector being bad.
Also make sure the alternator is grounded well. Clean off the outside of the bolt holes on the bracket. I've seen a bad ground do strange things.
That's interesting about the alternators at idle speed.
As a note:
It seems like something unknown changes like a switch and then the engine runs rough (presumably due to it running off of the battery) the voltage drops from 14.5v to ~13v. If I rev the engine I get very little response in voltage. It seems to be random and have a mind of its own. This could be a ground or alternator issue.
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