Car needs fuel or something... HELP!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Car needs fuel or something... HELP!
Well, I tried searching for "Car sputtering", "car dying", "start-up sputter" and about a million different things, I do come up with topics but there are about 1,000 different solutions to the problems people post. There was one post that the guy had similar symptoms to my car and people were saying things from the fuel pump, to the catalytic converter
.
Ok, so here's what happened: I was driving home from a long trip yesterday when I finally got back into my town (luckily it happened here), I was going down the highway at about 65 when I had my foot on the gas, the car sputtered, was gasping for gas, RPM's went up to about 3,000 RPM, down to 500, then shot back up and down, then died, where I pulled it over to the side of the highway.
Then I try starting it back up, it wont start, it's just cranking but not even starting up so I call AAA and have them tow it to my house.
I decided to leave it overnight until today when I tried starting it up and it would start up, but it would shudder violently and sputter, again with the huge fluctuation on the tach, and after about 10 seconds of sputtering (with my foot on the gas) it died.
Now, I haven't checked it with a fuel gauge yet (which I should do soon, i know
) but I did run out and buy a new fuel filter and tried putting it on. After putting it on and starting the car up, it did the same exact thing so that didn't really seem to solve anything.
When I turn the car to run I can hear the relay for the pump click and I can hear the pump whir, but I have also heard that even though the pump is whirring, it still doesn't mean it's exactly working.
So it's not the fuel filter and it's either electrical or fuel related. It's not my catalytic converter or any other asinine thing like that, I pretty much know that for a fact.
Somebody please help me out. I have no clue where to start, even by searching. I'm so lost and don't wanna go out buying thousands of new parts because honestly, I don't have the money for all that right now. I would like to know the most possible solution so I can go ahead and try that.
Sorry if I sounded too harsh in this post, I was just sick of searching through 100's of posts getting 100's of different answers, I know it could be any one of those things that were mentioned, I would just like to know the most reasonable answer.
Thanks alot, I appreciate any answer that may come up.
Oh and i'm not out of gas either
.Ok, so here's what happened: I was driving home from a long trip yesterday when I finally got back into my town (luckily it happened here), I was going down the highway at about 65 when I had my foot on the gas, the car sputtered, was gasping for gas, RPM's went up to about 3,000 RPM, down to 500, then shot back up and down, then died, where I pulled it over to the side of the highway.
Then I try starting it back up, it wont start, it's just cranking but not even starting up so I call AAA and have them tow it to my house.
I decided to leave it overnight until today when I tried starting it up and it would start up, but it would shudder violently and sputter, again with the huge fluctuation on the tach, and after about 10 seconds of sputtering (with my foot on the gas) it died.
Now, I haven't checked it with a fuel gauge yet (which I should do soon, i know
) but I did run out and buy a new fuel filter and tried putting it on. After putting it on and starting the car up, it did the same exact thing so that didn't really seem to solve anything.When I turn the car to run I can hear the relay for the pump click and I can hear the pump whir, but I have also heard that even though the pump is whirring, it still doesn't mean it's exactly working.
So it's not the fuel filter and it's either electrical or fuel related. It's not my catalytic converter or any other asinine thing like that, I pretty much know that for a fact.
Somebody please help me out. I have no clue where to start, even by searching. I'm so lost and don't wanna go out buying thousands of new parts because honestly, I don't have the money for all that right now. I would like to know the most possible solution so I can go ahead and try that.
Sorry if I sounded too harsh in this post, I was just sick of searching through 100's of posts getting 100's of different answers, I know it could be any one of those things that were mentioned, I would just like to know the most reasonable answer.
Thanks alot, I appreciate any answer that may come up.
Oh and i'm not out of gas either
Last edited by MikeDirntRulez; Jan 17, 2005 at 03:08 PM.
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Without checking the fuel pressure you can't rule out the fuel pump.
I'd check the fuel pressure before I did anything else. Could be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator bit the dust....
I'd check the fuel pressure before I did anything else. Could be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator bit the dust....
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Originally posted by vernw
Without checking the fuel pressure you can't rule out the fuel pump.
I'd check the fuel pressure before I did anything else. Could be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator bit the dust....
Without checking the fuel pressure you can't rule out the fuel pump.
I'd check the fuel pressure before I did anything else. Could be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator bit the dust....
Once I get a gauge, where do I insert it in order to get the most accurate reading?
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
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From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
You want to install it on the larger 3/8" fuel inlet line. The other line is a 5/16" fuel return line. Both of these lines run along the driver's side inner fender under the hood. But, don't forget that TBI engine do not use a shraeder (spelling?) valve like most other high pressure FI set-ups. When you go to the parts store, just make sure it's a "TBI fuel pressure gauge" or that the kit that you buy includes an adapter for TBIs. Fuel pressure should be 9-13 PSI.
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Unless, of course, you have a TPI set up in which case you just get a fuel pressure guage and hook it up to the schrader valve on the back passenger side of the fuel rail. Should get about 40 PSI at that point.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Thanks alot guys, I'll do that and report it back to you.
I have a question though... why are the TBI and TPI pressures varied so differently? If I have 13 PSI running through my entire fuel system that sounds a little too low for me.
What's with the big difference?
I have a question though... why are the TBI and TPI pressures varied so differently? If I have 13 PSI running through my entire fuel system that sounds a little too low for me.
What's with the big difference?
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Are you TPI or TBI?
Difference has to do with the style of injectors and what they need to run.
Difference has to do with the style of injectors and what they need to run.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
His signature says TBI.
Because TBI and TPI are quite different (great answer, huh?). Seriously, though, it's just how they were designed. TBI was designed to give an engine all the fuel it needs with just 2 injectors located before the throttle plates (considered a "wet manifold", like carbs) and is designed to work on a fairly low fuel pressure. TPI was designed to give an engine all the fuel it needs with 8 injectors located fairly close to the intake valves and are located after the throttle plates ("dry manifold") on a fairly high fuel pressure. You could go on forever about the differences between TBI and TPI.
I have a question though... why are the TBI and TPI pressures varied so differently? If I have 13 PSI running through my entire fuel system that sounds a little too low for me.
Last edited by Benm109; Jan 17, 2005 at 06:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
If it's not the ignition module, what else could it be?
Fuel Pump? Fuel Pump relay? Because I give the car gas and around 2500 RPM it runs fine, but when I let off the gas and it gets below 1000 RPM that's when it starts to shudder and then dies.
So that makes me believe that the fuel pump might still be working but who knows?
Thanks for the help so far everyone, I hope you guys have some more useful answers too
Fuel Pump? Fuel Pump relay? Because I give the car gas and around 2500 RPM it runs fine, but when I let off the gas and it gets below 1000 RPM that's when it starts to shudder and then dies.
So that makes me believe that the fuel pump might still be working but who knows?
Thanks for the help so far everyone, I hope you guys have some more useful answers too
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Bump....
Update. Now when I start the car up, it normally idles to about 1750 RPMs when cold, then goes down to the normal 500 warm idle, but this time it only idled to 1000 and was struggling to get to 1750, but it couldn't do it.
I didn't have my foot on the gas at all and it was idling perfectly fine until I opened the throttle a little bit and then it choked and violently shook and sputtered and died?
Here is me --->
What is wrong with this thing? ANY suggestions anybody?
Update. Now when I start the car up, it normally idles to about 1750 RPMs when cold, then goes down to the normal 500 warm idle, but this time it only idled to 1000 and was struggling to get to 1750, but it couldn't do it.
I didn't have my foot on the gas at all and it was idling perfectly fine until I opened the throttle a little bit and then it choked and violently shook and sputtered and died?
Here is me --->
What is wrong with this thing? ANY suggestions anybody?
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Don't know if this will help or not, but when my EGR was going out it would falter and die like that at idle too.
Have you checked to see if there are any stored codes? Does the check engine light work?
Also, did you ever check that fuel pressure?
Have you checked to see if there are any stored codes? Does the check engine light work?
Also, did you ever check that fuel pressure?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Haven't tested fuel pressure yet, soon I will because i'm broker than broke gets and I can't even afford $20 right now until I get paid. 
It has no codes and is not storing any codes at all. I even did the paper clip thing and it still is just throwing Code 12 (diagnostic).
I have a feeling that it's not the fuel pump though. Because it idles normally but dies as soon as I give it gas. I could be wrong though, I wont know until I check the fuel pressure.
Could it be fouled plugs? Because the car isn't misfiring it just shakes violently as it's dying, but again, it idles without putting my foot on the gas, but it's not at the same idle speed it's always at when it's cold.
I'm just asking all these questions because I dont have the $$ to spend on unnecessary parts and I just want to know what could possibly be wrong.
Anybody have any suggestions!? ANYTHING you could think of that's causing this please speak up, I am carless (well, I have to bum rides from family and my g/f for now) at the momentand need to get Cammie back on the road.

It has no codes and is not storing any codes at all. I even did the paper clip thing and it still is just throwing Code 12 (diagnostic).
I have a feeling that it's not the fuel pump though. Because it idles normally but dies as soon as I give it gas. I could be wrong though, I wont know until I check the fuel pressure.
Could it be fouled plugs? Because the car isn't misfiring it just shakes violently as it's dying, but again, it idles without putting my foot on the gas, but it's not at the same idle speed it's always at when it's cold.
I'm just asking all these questions because I dont have the $$ to spend on unnecessary parts and I just want to know what could possibly be wrong.
Anybody have any suggestions!? ANYTHING you could think of that's causing this please speak up, I am carless (well, I have to bum rides from family and my g/f for now) at the momentand need to get Cammie back on the road.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Huntington, West Virginia
Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
Don't forget about cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. It sounds like you might have a problem somewhere in the ignition system. Get the cheap stuff out of the way before you start spending lots of money on expensive parts.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 748
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Already checked vaccum lines. That wasn't it.
I lifted the rotor cap yesterday, was corroded to all hell, cleaned it off, tried starting it, same problem.
I did pull off the inlet line (since I can't afford a fuel pressure gauge right now) and decided to turn the car to 'run', and no gas shot out whatsoever, so i'm about 95% sure it's the fuel pump.
I go out one day and can hear the pump whirring, but I go out the next day and turn the key to run and can hear the relay click, but not the pump, so i'm very very close to believing it is now the fuel pump.
Thank you for all your help. I will end up getting to it Sunday seeing as how I work 16 hour work days at 2 jobs now and the only day I get off is Sunday, so we'll see what happens.
IF ONLY I WOULD HAVE TESTED THE FUEL PRESSURE IN THE FIRST PLACE!
I lifted the rotor cap yesterday, was corroded to all hell, cleaned it off, tried starting it, same problem.
I did pull off the inlet line (since I can't afford a fuel pressure gauge right now) and decided to turn the car to 'run', and no gas shot out whatsoever, so i'm about 95% sure it's the fuel pump.
I go out one day and can hear the pump whirring, but I go out the next day and turn the key to run and can hear the relay click, but not the pump, so i'm very very close to believing it is now the fuel pump.
Thank you for all your help. I will end up getting to it Sunday seeing as how I work 16 hour work days at 2 jobs now and the only day I get off is Sunday, so we'll see what happens.
IF ONLY I WOULD HAVE TESTED THE FUEL PRESSURE IN THE FIRST PLACE!
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From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Mike MikeDirntRulez
What ended up being the solution to all that sad crap you were buiried under??? Was it fuel?
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