shouldn't the turbo's be on the oppisite sides.. cause that would be wired having to make the pipe for them to extend up and around

 

Mike, the black junk on the silver part of those head gaskets says 'compromised'. Might not have been gone completely, but if not it was going.

If you look at your red 'x' and click on properties, you'll note that the link is still good. Copy and paste opens up the pic. Your image tags are still up as well.

As for the TT motor looking good... there's an old saying 'chrome don't get you home'. (and btw it's not an l98)

 

to tell ya the truth i thought the same thing , but he sold those to a guy, and is gettign bigger turbo,s after that, good for around 1000RWHP. He thinks atleast.

But he already has the piping made i wish i had pics of it cause its all stainless steel that polished. Awesome d00d, very handy. that why i trust him about the motor stuff.

 

its not an L98 huh? well it came out of a 88 IROC, and its mwhat my 083 heads came on stock from. But he had traded those things a while back, for those Dart Pro 1 Heads that are on it.

But casting numbers check out its an L98.

 

A 427 L98 TT. Funny... I don't remember that option on the order sheet. :shrug:

 

wasn't stock, but neighter were 427 SBC ever stock.

Hes got that block really solid, i'm telling ya.

But he sold those turbos toa guy down the road, he wants to patent the design of those headers he made. Totallycustom design, he bought the flange and the tubing and welded them things together. Bet you wont find better flowing turbo headers now will ya?

 

WOW. that prized engine you have looks like CRAP!! I wouldn't buy that thing unless I planned a full rebuild!! It seems its been stored outside for 3 years......the bores are rusty......junk. Shane why do you post for advice, just to argue w/ what everyone tells you?? If money isn't an issue, than upgrade. You contradict everything you say.....your rich and want to run stock internals....in an engine that has been sitting outside for 3 years. Early in the post you said that you could still see the cross-hatch from the last honing......how did you do that, by scraping the rust off?? if I recall this is like the 10th engine that you have accuired lately...what gives?? If you want a solid short block I would look elsewhere....or have the thing rebuilt.

Oh, and by the way if you wanna buy a shortblock.....i have one that has been sitting outside for 2 years, ill sell it to you if you wanna buy more junk....hahahah......no but seriously, there's one thing you can't buy...and that is your dignity, you'll never get that back after all the stupid BS that you have posted!

 

well, if you havea block thats rust free i'dlove to take it. I could use both sets of heads i've required, pistons are quite alright. and i just won $100 from the super bowl, bet $100 on the pats and heck yeah, i won, so tmorow i go pcik up my $200.... gah lee wish i woulda bet all my tax return now instead of just $100.

Anyways....

The crank is ok, rods are perfectly fine, you guys just seem to really hate the early model blocks.

If i may ask, why? were they relaly that bad of a block or what?

If you have a fully prepared block them give me a deal, and as logn as the mbare blokc can be shipped pretty easily, at a reasonable price i'll buy it.


but those bores are actually quite clean guys. the rusty colored water is what your seeing. The cross hatchings are still very visable. there was no surface rust at all i the bores, just in the intake runners, but that can easily be cleaned out as i was gonan port and polish anyways...

Later on i will be buying a forged internally balanced 383 crank, and those are quite a dollar to buy, that why i'm waiting guys. This will hold me over for quite a while. I just need to get the block fully machined.

And if onyl you guys saw the before pics of that L98 you see above. There was once rust in weird places on it, but that dont neccesarily make the block bad. It can alwasy be cleaned up as it was and mine will be.

 

that one bore was the onyl bore with rust in it from the whole block.... the others may look red/orange, and now that i look at thempics again i can see why you guys think its so bad. but all the bored are spraight. there is a slight amount of rust colored water. but no rust on the bored, or internal motor sections. the heads are a complete other story.

I woulda never looked twice at that block if it were bad.

 

and for the guy who said the gasket was compromiced, look closely at my high res photo and becuase it was a low light condition, it sorta double exposed, and the black line up close is the other side on top the correct photo, if you get what i'm saying. I dont think you do, but its not compromised.

Chris has no rpoblem in helping me in whatever way he possibly can to get this motor running 12.2 again. He pretty much guarenteed me it'd run that good with simple mahcine work, bearing, and rering, as any general block refreshen would require....



wlel time to get to bed, all this superbowl crap here in jacksonville the past week has made me tired. I need to go back to school for the first time ina week tomorow. I skipped to goto all the parties around town, hehe,

 

That block can be cleaned up and used, unless there's something that we can't see in the pics. Your machine shop should be the ones to make the final determination on whether you can get away with a hone or if it's gonna need to be bored, just can't tell by the pic, but if that water has been sitting too long, might need bored out. The intake surface on those heads looks pretty nasty. I hope that block is not sitting in mud without the oil pan on it. I don't know what heads those are, but pulling a 12.2 on a set of stock '77 350 heads seems like a stretch, though (unless they have some serious porting).

 

Why is it it never ends up as "just a question?"

 

They're 76cc heads, with stock springs, rockers, and they even have the valve rotators... just your basic bone stock smogger heads.
12.2 huh??
Somebody's awfully gullible here.
Did you ask if that was in the 1/4 or the 1/8th...
I'd say don't pay for the block til it's been to a shop for a check up.

 

This thread is full of all kinds of stupid.