I know he updated it with a correction for the ball bearing size. I just want the latest one.

another question:
Why is the ball bearing used instead of a thin piece of metal to distribute the load onto the spring? Is it because the hat isn't tall enough to allow for such a piece?


TIA,

James

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1985 Z-28 305 TPI
165 ECM,STB,SFC,GW "wonderbar"

 

in the update, there is a piece of metal. Take it out of a 3/4 in metal eletrical box knockout. I just did this last Sat. and it works great.

Jeremy

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WE WILL MISS YOU #3
92 Z conv
5-spd B&M shifter
home-made ram air, air foil, headers, no cat, TB bypass, kevlar pads, slotted rotors, BMR panhard, alston SFC, 3.42's, Edelbrock STB, 350 in the works

 

did you still use an adjusting screw or is the nockout the unadjustable adjustment?


James

 

James,

For MY regulator, I had to use a 0.312" ball, but you should really size yours according to the fit in the spring retainer cap. It might be different. The easiest thing is the knockout, but does require a little reforming of the spring can and about 1/8" more height in an already cramped area.

The whole PDF is here:

AFPR.pdf

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

does the knockout preload the regulator or is its soul purpose to distribute the load? I'm still confused on that one. I know some people use nickel preload and increase their fuel pressre.


James

 

The knockout will raise the standing pressure, so you must reform the spring can as described in the article to maintain the abiltiy to run stock pressure.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader