hey everybody, sorry if this post seems kind of stupid or anything, but i've been trying to figure out why my '90 Iroc has no get up and go at all, and i'm slowly narrowing it down since i've recently got money to actually fix the problems(sold my '84 Z28).

i've worked on older cars a lot, and anything without computers and not fuel injected(the Z28 had a 4 barrel 350 in it with all the electronics ripped out--i was stupid enough to buy it that way). i'm new to working on something, well, this new, so i'm still learning a lot since i like to do work on my cars myself. sorry about that, now the question--

is there anything i need to know about taking off the plenum to get to the EGR valve for replacement? i had to buy a torque wrench to add to my toolset and will be getting a gasket set for it in the next day or two. was wondering if there's anything i need to worry about or anything else i need to get. thankf ro reading this and thanks for the help.

 

Welcome to thirdgen.org!

You may need to loosen the lower runner bolts too...there's two (one from each side) that come in from the inside, on the bottom.

No "get up and go", probably isn't EGR related...bad/leaking EGR's usually give idling issues..EGR not working at all, should have no effect at WOT.

Tracking down problems with performance is much easier with a scantool/data logger...there's a few "free" softwares that can be run via laptop, as well as inexpensive scan tools too.

 

cool thanks, my brother works at Advance Auto so he's run the diagnostic computer on it and the only thing that pops up is the EGR code. i notice lately it's idleling kinda low, but other than it having no acceleration the car drives extremely well. after i put the new EGR vavle in i'll run it through the computer again and see if anything else comes up, thanks for the help.

 

Best do a search on egr or code 32?? IIRC, the 90-92's have something else that caused the code to pop up...don't recall what it is though.

Also, I think the EGR code relates more to the EGR temp than the valve itslef...might want to look through a manual for the code diag. I'm sure the search function will yield tons of info.

Is this a 305 or 350?

 

hrmm, i'll try running it again and do a more in depth search on the codes then. you know it could be the temp though, i just have a weird feeling the engine is getting a little too hot(temp guage is broken and will be fixed soon). but i figure since i already bought a new EGR valve it wouldn't hurt to replace it and see what happens.

oh yeah it's got a 305.

 

Before anything else you have no acceleration well a 1990 iroc you should have a speed density setup. Try the map sensor itself relies on the density of air entering your intake manifold and this in turn via the ecm signal tells the ecm how to adjust the injector width and pulse. As for an EGR code check the solenoil vaccum lines these are right next to your map sensor itself though I have to agree that the egr is not a major contender. Another possibility is your tps sensor.

 

sorry that i can't help you out any offspring. this is my first post, usually i could do a search and find out how to fix my car. but this time im stuck, and it sounds like im having the same problem. i have little acceleration and throttle response. she doesnt idle bad or shutter at any rpm. the only thing i notice that is bad is the 14 mpg. the ses light is totally random, and sometimes comes onand sometimes doesnt. my vaccum lines are good, diaphram in the valve moves smoothly, and im still getting code 32. how can i check if the egr solenoid is bad? and i know this sounds odd, but i read how any vaccum lines unplugged or clogged could throw this code, so could this be related to my cruise control not working? thanks for any help.

 

yeah that sounsd like the same problem i have, i think after i replace the EGR valve itself i'm going to just replace the solenoid cable just for the sake of not having to worry about it later.

from what i gather with checking the solenoid, you use a test light to see if it's getting power and test how much vacuum it holds. i'll look up the specs on what should be what later tonight.

 

hey everybody sorry for the dissapearance for those couple of months. lost the internet for a while.

ok, other than having to special order an EGR valve from New York(costing me 80 damn bucks), fixed it. the car is a bit more responsive, but the acceleration is still a joke on it. i'm gonna take it somewhere to get all my suspension work done to it(the suspension and alignment is shot to hell on it), and i'm gonna have them run a diagnostic test on the engine and check it out and see what happens. wish me luck.

 

good luck. it's probably your timing was set incorrectly or has backed off a few degrees.