Did GM ever make a fan switch that comes on at a cooler temperature? I want one that threads into the stock location and uses the stock harness. I saw on the aftermarket product review board someone said to use a TTA fan switch - is this cooler? Thanks for any help.

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"Life is pain! Anyone who says differently is selling something."

 

Hey I ROCK, scroll down the pages of this message board, you will find lots of answers to your post. There are a lot of posts about fan questions. There are a few aftermarket fan switches out there that will work.
Take care
Mike

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(Gran Turismo Americano) "The Ultimate Firebird"
Smokin 1989 GTA- Bone stock except for exhaust. (no catalytic-stainless pipe into Flowmaster 2 chamber).

 

Hey, you sound like you don't want to change too much from the stock setup (i.e. change thermostat and other components to accomodate hypertech/jet fan switch or chip). I wanted to keep things generally stock as well and had good luck with a Hayden adjustable relay (at PepBoys, etc.)on my 89 IROC 5.7L with 2 fans.It can turn the primary fan on at 90-210 degrees F. Plus, you can leave the original system completely intact so it can serve as a backup or for any A/C cooling needs. WestCoastGTAMan has excellent advice: search for old posts regarding this topic and you can learn a lot to choose what setup suits you best.

 

Well I ordered the TTA fan switch from auto zone - it's an obscure part that is listed in the borg warner catalog for "buick 86, 87" and "pontiac 89" hmmm did somebody say turbo 6? it's 19.99 and the pn is SW555. Hope this helps some people.

Edit - actually I'm just lazy...plus I've heard bad things about the hayden "probe" that goes in the rad.

[This message has been edited by I ROCK (edited July 08, 2001).]

 

Like what? Ive used those on more cars than I can count for more than 8 years now, never had a problem with the probe.

 

I have, if it's the probe you need to run into the top rad hose... after having leaks around it and having to wrap it in an innertube to seal it good it works flawlessly until it was time to change rad hoses again. All the bending/tweaking on it and age caused it to snap. It wasn't the hayden though (I'm not sure if they are the same) it was the flexalite. IMO it's better to get the right switch that goes in the head and run it to a relay.