Guys,
I have been having a lopey idle and fouling of plug #6 for ever since i can remember. I thought i tested the compression and valves with the leakdown. Well before pulling the superram off and changing the injectors and what not, I figured I'd run the compression test one more time on all 8.
1 120
2 115
3 120
4 110
5 120
6 110
7 110
8 100


Those numbers can't be very good.
I don't know what is in the bottom end of this motor. It was in the car when i got it.
I've also found a 69 4bolt 350 block that needs some work. I'm able to get the entire assemble for 200bucks. It needs cleaned something bad.

Does it sound as if the block needs rebuilt? I would like to get another block so i can get it prepped and ready so the car isn't down for quite as long.


Brendan



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1987 IROC-Z L98,SR,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 SR Cam, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Prop Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Weld in Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis LCA's, KYB Shocks/Struts, Poly Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm, Big stereo, 730SD Conversion.

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

Those numbers are too consistent to be an actual problem with the engine. They look more like you didn't have the throttle blocked wide open.

A 69 block has a 2-piece rear main seal; your car needs a one-piece. Not insurmountable of course, but something you'd have to deal with.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

With a good size cam with overlap that has the exhaust valve open while the intake valve is opening, the air pressure inside the cylinder will be less than a stock type cam hat has no overlap, especialy at the speed the starter rotates the engine. You probably have a cam that is meant for power upstairs or about 5500~6000 RPM.

Plus those numbers are pretty consistant like the previous poster said.

James

 

What all would the 69 block need done to it, to make it work for my setup??
And since the numbers are consistant. Do you think my only other problem would be fuel related? The plugs that i pulled out look very inconsistant. Number 6 is fouled badly. 2 and 4 have an uneven beige fire ring on the electrode. The rest of the plugs, 1,3,5,7,8 look as if they haven't even been fired. They don't have any trace of burning other than a small white trace.
Sound like some extremely bad injectors?
The entire ignition system is new, new distributor, cap,rotor,wires, plugs(3-4times). Only had 1% valve leakage on the "questionable" number 6 cylinder when the leakdown was performed.


Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SR,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 SR Cam, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Prop Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Weld in Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis LCA's, KYB Shocks/Struts, Poly Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm, Big stereo, 730SD Conversion.

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here