I recently got Harland sharp aluminum roller rockers with a 1.6 ratio and tried to install them. I used my Manuel for my car and followed the instructions, #1 piston to the top changed the rocker arms they told me tighten to where you have resistance twisting the push rods then turn it 3/4 of a circle than after doing the ones they say to do make the engine turn 360 degrees to 0 and do the rest. I did that and it makes a whole lot of clanking noises. Is it different for roller rocker arms than normal ones putting on? Is there a curtain pounds of torque you put on it or is what I did completely wrong?
Sorry its so long thank for your help

 

Hmmn, you need to have each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed), don't think you can do it the way you described.

I don't do it often enough to rember which ones you can adjust when #1 is at TDC, you should pick up a manual, or search the archives....this have been explained many times before.

Good luck, don't fire it off until you get it squared away.

 

i thought you were supposed to stop when you first felt drag thats when all lash has been removed. this is what haynes says for stamped rockers not sure about rollers

 

It's the same for the rollers.

When the intake for that cylinder starts to open (pushrod just starting to move up), adjust the exhaust. And when the exhaust for that cylinder is almost fully closed (pushrod moved up and is now moving down) you could adjust the intake.

I usually only give them 1/8" to 1/4" of additional tightening after zero lash. Less likely to pump-up the lifters and float the valves at high RPM's.

 

I agree with Joel. I put a little extra spin on them to make them drop a bit more. I have not done one in the non running method. I usually cheat and do it while the motor is running. Not a good way but it is extremely simple to do.

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91 Z28 Camaro
305 TPI
Flowmaster 3" exhaust
700R4 with 2000 Stall and shift kit 3.42 rearend
One sweet sounding system

 

Read your manual more carefully. You only read one sentence out of the paragraph.

Have No1 at TDC. Adjust No. 1 intake and exhaust, exhaust of 3,4,and 8, and intake of 2,5,and 7.
Rotate the crank 360 degrees and repeat with intake valves of 3,4,6, and 8, then exhaust of 2,5,6, and 7.

 

89ragtop has beat me to the kill. that is the best way to set rockers. just curious about that 1/8 to 1/4 turn, is that enough preload? i would be concerned about launching a pushrod at 6500 RPMs. ive always set them at 3/4 turn after zero lash.

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85 IROC 350 11:1keith blacks,.555lift erson roller cam,1.5 crane roller rockers,edelbrock intake,holley 4150 750dbl pumper, nitrous oxide,full length heddman headers,true dual exhaust, 11"stall converter, 700R4, 3.73 locker

 

Nope, you won't toss a pushrod. You want some preload though. The idea is that when you collapse the lifter by using the 1/2 turn method, when the lifter pumps up the area you collapsed with the 1/2 turn fills with oil and the valves don't shut. With a smaller area, the plunger tops out onto the snapring effectivly making the lifter a 'solid' lifter.

Now, no guarantee the stock lifters snaprings wont break and cause all kinds of hell, but I have run my stockers like this for a long time before I did a cam swap and got the aftermarket rollers simply because they have a much stronger retainer. So I only run 1/16 of a turn past zero lash.

It's actually a very old trick. 3/4 or 1/2 is just too much IMO, but at least it's more safe I guess... take it as you wish

I run my lifters up to 6,100 RPM like this without a glitch. Your springs have to be up to the task, but thats a whole different thing. I don't have a hydra-rev kit and from what I hear 6,125 is the max you should run our heavy rollers at, but the hydra-rev kit sounds like an overpriced band-aid for weak springs so I take that with a grain of salt, it's just that my cam isn't making power higher than that.

 

hmmmm.. never really gave it that much thought before now. im in the middle of a head swap now so ill have the chance to try this out very soon.

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85 IROC 350 11:1keith blacks,.555lift erson roller cam,1.5 crane roller rockers,edelbrock intake,holley 4150 750dbl pumper, nitrous oxide,full length heddman headers,true dual exhaust, 11"stall converter, 700R4, 3.73 locker

 

Go at least 1/2 to 1 full turn if you don't want it to sound like a chatterbox once the oil thins out and the car warms up. It allows the lifter to compensate for wear in the valvetrain and keeps things quieter under the hood. I learned this the hard way when mine sounded like an old junker at low RPMs. 1/16 is way too extreme for a street driven engine, and you won't need it, IMO.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, Accel coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley AFPR, ported plenum,
Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, thick rubber floormats, no cats.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

If u have the pushrods to tight will it make it sound like u have a really bad knock