Major Modifications to Increase Speed
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Major Modifications to Increase Speed
What are the top 10 Major Modifications you should do to Increase HP on your F-BODY engine and transmission?
One more question for you techs out there, I want to get a 383 into my 91 Camaro RS. What I want to know is will there be enough clearence for headers,wires,starter,gas pump ect in the engine area?
One more question for you techs out there, I want to get a 383 into my 91 Camaro RS. What I want to know is will there be enough clearence for headers,wires,starter,gas pump ect in the engine area?
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 1
From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Forced Induction (Supercharger , Turbocharger)
Nitrous
Intake (Cold Air , High Flow Filter ,Throttle Body , Runners)
Exhaust (Headers , High Flow Cat , Catback)
Porting and Polishing of Heads
ECU Tuning
Shift Kit
Performance Ignition Systems (Coils , Plugs , Wires , Cap/Rotor)
Cam
Nitrous
Intake (Cold Air , High Flow Filter ,Throttle Body , Runners)
Exhaust (Headers , High Flow Cat , Catback)
Porting and Polishing of Heads
ECU Tuning
Shift Kit
Performance Ignition Systems (Coils , Plugs , Wires , Cap/Rotor)
Cam
Last edited by V8 Slayer; Mar 11, 2005 at 12:45 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
first off, a 383 is just a modified 350, therefor it has the same dimensions as a 350. The 283-400 short blocks (from factory) have the exact same exterior dimensions as each other (the bore size is different for them all, and the coolant passages are different for them all). So you should have no problem getting all that stuff under there with a 383 as you would a 305.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by sellmanb
first off, a 383 is just a modified 350, therefor it has the same dimensions as a 350. The 283-400 short blocks (from factory) have the exact same exterior dimensions as each other (the bore size is different for them all, and the coolant passages are different for them all). So you should have no problem getting all that stuff under there with a 383 as you would a 305.
first off, a 383 is just a modified 350, therefor it has the same dimensions as a 350. The 283-400 short blocks (from factory) have the exact same exterior dimensions as each other (the bore size is different for them all, and the coolant passages are different for them all). So you should have no problem getting all that stuff under there with a 383 as you would a 305.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
the weak links on our cars really depend on what form of induction you have.
but as a general rule of thumb for these cars, (not in any particular order, but hitting the biggest first)
EXHAUST!!! - The exhaust on our cars are way too small for a V6, none the less a V8. Everything from exhaust manifolds to the tailpipes need to go. Replace w/ good quality headers, and a 3 inch mandrel bent cat-back.
Cam - The cams are sooo wickedly mild it's surprising they even open the valves.
Heads - Tons of valve shrouding, tons of casting flaws, little air flow (no wonder the 5.0l's only make like 145 horses, eh?)
Transmission (Auto and Manual) - The pre-86 auto trannies are much weaker than the 86+ trannies. The 5 speed trannies are notoriously weak all years.
Intake - The Q-Jet (Carb) intake manifolds arent too bad, but a ZZ4 would whomp on it all day. The TBI was decent for what it was, I think you can attach a TBI unit to a ZZ4 intake as well, but I'm not sure. TPI is well... TPI, it's a non-performance intake on a performance sub-model car (Z28/IROC). Get rid of the TPI as soon as you can, replace with aftermarket Fuel Injection if you want.
Differential - Very very very very weak, unless you have a 9 bolt rear end, expect yours to blow at any time. The 10 bolts are notoriously weak. They hold up decent to regular street driving though on a stock motor though... but dont pound on your car and expect the rear to last.
This is the main weak points in your motor, if you build the motor using matching parts, replacing these parts above, then you should be running much quicker and efficiently.
Note: This isnt all of the weak links in the motor, and I am probably missing a few important ones. I apologize in advanced
but as a general rule of thumb for these cars, (not in any particular order, but hitting the biggest first)
EXHAUST!!! - The exhaust on our cars are way too small for a V6, none the less a V8. Everything from exhaust manifolds to the tailpipes need to go. Replace w/ good quality headers, and a 3 inch mandrel bent cat-back.
Cam - The cams are sooo wickedly mild it's surprising they even open the valves.
Heads - Tons of valve shrouding, tons of casting flaws, little air flow (no wonder the 5.0l's only make like 145 horses, eh?)
Transmission (Auto and Manual) - The pre-86 auto trannies are much weaker than the 86+ trannies. The 5 speed trannies are notoriously weak all years.
Intake - The Q-Jet (Carb) intake manifolds arent too bad, but a ZZ4 would whomp on it all day. The TBI was decent for what it was, I think you can attach a TBI unit to a ZZ4 intake as well, but I'm not sure. TPI is well... TPI, it's a non-performance intake on a performance sub-model car (Z28/IROC). Get rid of the TPI as soon as you can, replace with aftermarket Fuel Injection if you want.
Differential - Very very very very weak, unless you have a 9 bolt rear end, expect yours to blow at any time. The 10 bolts are notoriously weak. They hold up decent to regular street driving though on a stock motor though... but dont pound on your car and expect the rear to last.
This is the main weak points in your motor, if you build the motor using matching parts, replacing these parts above, then you should be running much quicker and efficiently.
Note: This isnt all of the weak links in the motor, and I am probably missing a few important ones. I apologize in advanced
Last edited by sellmanb; Mar 11, 2005 at 03:21 PM.
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