Maybe I'm paranoid. Maybe not. I sent my GTA to my mech with a no-start condition. Before I sent it in, I got the codes by jumping terminals a and b in the aldl. I got only a 53 code, not a 34.

He has had the car for 2 weeks now :roll-eyes and now all of a sudden he says he needs to get a junkyard maf and turn my maf in for a core , because he is getting a code for bad maf (he didn't say what the code was). How could the maf decide to go bad all of a sudden ? The car has been sitting outside his shop all this time and the only activity of the engine has been him trying to fix it. He says whenever he gets the car running, it is very rough, and throws a maf code, after having just cleared all the codes. Actually he is getting 2 codes, but for some reason wants to ignore the other code (says he doesn't remember) and just wants to get a new maf. Funny thing is, whenever I stop by his shop, and try to start the car, it won't fire up at all. Geez, maybe I should go and get the codes myself.

What do you think ? Ripoff ? incompetence ?
Maybe he sprayed starter fluid on the maf and hosed it up ?

 

What's a 53? System voltage high? Probably hosed a relay or two. Bum, borrow, ***** or buy an alt. to throw it in as well as new relays. I'd also yank it out of that shop and fix it myself.

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

 

he is seeing the code 34 and assuming you need a new maf,, i had a code 36 once and my mechanic told me to buy a new maf, i wasted money on one and all i needed was the $10 relay on the fierewall,,
get the car home and fix it yourself, we'll help you do it..
both codes have to do with voltage problems.. a code 34 has to do with the tps voltage, it might be out of spec and need to be adjusted. check it out.

 

check your codes, you're getting hosed..

trick him, tell him that you're going to stop by and see how it runs because you have some ideas on what it can be..

when you get there and he starts it tell him he doesn't know what the HELL he's doing and that you're taking it home..

check your codes, post em here and you'll get it fixed for about 1/10th of the cost he woulda charged you

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

Incidentally, 34 is high MAF voltage or low air flow. Funny how that high voltage theme keeps coming up huh?

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

 

Yeah, I guess I panicked when I got the 53 code, which isn't even supposed to occur in an 88, but only in 93 and higher GTA's according to my Chilton's. Code 53 is high voltage at battery, at EGR, system voltage, and VATS.

As an added bonus to having my car for 2 weeks and not fixing it, he has hit it with one of his utility vans. At that point I was so disgusted, Ii told him to stop working on the engine, and just get the body damage fixed and painted. So now he is stalling, probably waiting for me to cave in and just go pick up my car. I could sue him and win a judgment in court, but he would never pay me, and the courts wouldn't care. I called an attorney, who told me to leave the car with the mech, and to file a police report, and wait til he gets the body repaired. A lot of people are telling me to tow it the heck away from that mech right away, but the attorney says no. Geez, where do I get this luck ? It's not even Friday the 13th yet.

Looking back, of course I should have just pushed the car into my driveway and taken my time to at least try to fix it myself, with the help of the internet. Especially since I have my daily driver to get around in.

Speaking of the alternator, it had been flickering the lights, all lights, headlights, radio lights, dome, etc. for about a year. So maybe it was putting out spikes of high voltage. But it never read over 14 volts whenever I had the motor running.

 

In which state do you reside?
Sue him, get the judgment, start supplementary proceedings (SP) against him. It will go like this... Notice of small claims, judgment (he will probably default), get a notice to show cause, he'll probably default (on both), then get a capias and pay a sheriff to arrest his *** and bring him in. When (if) he doesn't pay after that, judges usually give him 30 days in the klink. In most states the debtor is required to pay all court and sheriff costs if he loses. NOTE: Also in most states the plaintiff in a small claims action loses their right to an appeal!!
As far as getting the car, START A PAPER TRAIL NOW!!!! It is vitally important if legal action should be pursued in the future. Also you may want to call your state attorney general. Free hassle to the schmuck.
His first and foremost counterclaim will be storage cost and his likely defense will be you stalled everything, so cover your A$$!
Do EVERYTHING in writing (certified mail helps) and follow up ALL verbal conversations with a letter confirming anything said, agreed upon or disputed (the last one is tricky to do).

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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."

-Thomas Jefferson

 

yes! dont be scared by work you may have to do to get it to court.. its not that bad. the paper trail is right.. keep everything you do in writing, ever watch people's court? the person with the paper work ALWAYS wins..he wont have it and you will. dont give in, he'll laugh at you till the day he dies. right now, you have the upper hand, but dont let him make you think you are powerless

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• 83 Z28-- not a pretty site to look at, 200k miles and im sure it was treated like a rental car every day of its sad life(before i got it).. sold, thank the lord
• 74 Z28-- 383/400, green on black. pretty clean. FOR SALE!!!

 

Update. This morning I went over to the mech's shiop to take some pics of the car. Took about 12 pics of the whole car, then decided to do the full monty, got in the car, got the codes. Sure enough there was a 33 and a 53. OK, at least he's not lying about the maf code. Tried to start the car. It started! Ran OK for a while, then a little rough, but it kept running. Of course I am thinking of driving it straight home to my safe garge. But the attorney I called yesterday said to leave it with him, to get the bodywork done, or else I'll be out my $500 deductible. I shut it off, popped the hood, tightened up a loose screw on the MAF, tapped on the maf burnoff relay, got back in and started her up.Then, just for kicks, I drove off to see how it ran. It ran better than it did when the problem first cropped up 3 weeks ago, but it was still pretty rough, and blowing blue smoke, and I stalled twice. Drove it 4 tenths of a mile, put it back in the same spot it was before. And now the SES light was off ! Rang the mech's doorbell ( 8 : 45 am). I tell him it's running, so why don't I just drive it around for a while. He says the bodyshop guy won't look at the car unless it is at his shop.

So I leave it there. Who knows, it might have shut off onme in another 2 tenths of a mile. Plus I do want him to do the bodywork and not have to pay $500, sue him, and all that hassle.

I am going to stop by again tonight to see if it starts again, and to see if the 'body guy' showed up (probably not), and then I might just ask for his set of keys and the registration , give him some bs about coming back later for the bodywork. Just to get it back in a sane person's hands. Then I would get my ins to fix it, and try to take him to court for the $500, I suppose, unless he agrees to $500 worth of free repairs in the future, on my daily driver, maybe, but not my GTA. Maybe I am going too easy on this guy. Probably. I just don't want all that court stress, with big ugly scenes and filing when and where with what witnesses and what to say on the police report etc etc etc... Hopefully Friday the Thirteenth is my lucky day, and I'll take the car back today, drive it to my driveway and fix the engine myself.

 

Head back to the shop and unplug the electrical connector underneath the MAF, if the car runs fine, suspect either the MAF, or the relays. Tell him this. Try the relays first.

BTW, I've never heard of a junkyard needing a core for an electrical device. I'd also be hesitant to install a junkyard MAF as well.

 

Excuse me, did you say blue smoke?

Doesn't this seem funny to -anyone-? I don't think electrical problems would have anything to the car burning dino juice.

[Edit] Although, I don't know what the original problems/symptoms were. (IE. electrical spikes frying the computer causeing the engine to run lean and burn rings causing it to burn oil... ect.)
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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

[This message has been edited by Xenodrgn (edited July 13, 2001).]

 

I had the same codes, replaced the MAF only to find out that the pins in the maf connector were loose. DOH, I learned my lesson.

 

I agree with Red Devil...

Take the car out now and sue the dumb @ss for your deductible.

Unless of course your name is "Ben Dover"?



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Mike L.
It ain't pretty.......

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

Actually my post was intended for suit prior to any body work done. If I were in this position, I wouldn't call my insurance company at all, I'd be calling his and following up with a letter in writing putting them on notice of a claim. I would also get a letter out to him NOW. You really need to get on the ball. Most Att. Gen. offices are closed on Saturday, call yet? You better be on the phone to them ASAP. You can also tell them he is intimating that if you do not leave the car in his possession he will not fix the damage. Gee, what's that... extortion?? Need I ramble on in regard to the legal ramifications of this? My underlying theme here? YOU SNOOZE< YOU LOOSE, and you'll need depends for the next few years to catch all the bleeding out of your a$$. This may sound harsh, but unless your in the business you really have no idea how hard you can get fuct in the real legal world. Two words: PAPER TRAIL. (this means lots of CYA letters!)

 

Update 2. Tonight I went over after work to the mech and collected my car. Got my keys, got my registration, and drove the car (barely) home, washed it and told it to relax, everything is going to be fine. Yes, I will do the police report and call the atty general.

It didn't run as well as it did this morning, though, and now I have 2 more codes to ponder, which I will mention in a new article. Thank God I have my GTA back.

I bet my 33 code is due to him putting a dead maf core in and fencing my good maf. I wish I had recorded the serial number on the original.

 

Actually on a prev post there is a core on a hot wire maf more than the sensor itself. The wore is platinum.... I paid over $300 for a sensor... after core about $95

 

Joel, a core from a wrecking yard? I'll be darn, I hope they give a decent guarantee.

 

My bad, I meant a parts store. Although the j-yard I goto has cores on alot of things. Heads, motors, trans, even brake drums and axles?!?

I guess it's the latest in j-yard pricing tactics. No I don't they have it on the MAF. I got my maf from cee-kay auto (local) and it was stamped 'new bosch unit' on the bottom, but they still nailed me with a $200 core on the old one.