K guys it's another prob with the Formula that I basicly made my G/F buy and now she want's to kill me.

The 87 carb.ed formula is being really, really hesatant(?) Last weekend in order to try to fix this I replaced the cap and roter, adjusted the idle and still when it's at full stop to WOT the car just bogs down like a stick in mud. She almost got nailed yesterday by 2 cars when she attempted to pull out into traffic. Gonna change the fuel filter tonight cause it's got some leakin at the fuel intake and it's a good line + I don't think it's been done. And new AC plugs this weekend (weather permitting) What else can I do to fix this? Quick!!! I hear her comming!

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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

is it only when you stomp on the gas right away?

possibly the accelerator pump in the carb needs to be replaced?

if it's bogging down when it's only revving out it's not getting fuel, maybe she needs a new fuel pump..

you're on the right track with the fuel idea, though..

one good way to test the fuel pump is to hit the highway, go find a steep hill and slowly press the gas in until you're all the way floored, if it starts to choke off, it's the fuel pump..

the problem will get worse if that's what it is until it finally gives up the ghost

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

the fuel pump is only ten dollars at auto zone.....I know because it's the first of a very long list of things I replaced on my car,it still works after three years. I would replace it just keep her off your back,what kind of engine is this anyways? I have a 4-barrel Q-jet 305 HO (L69) motor in my car, sometimes I hate my car too,but when I look at all these guys dropping paychecks for cars they don't even own...and won't own for another five years,not to mention we only get paid twice a month. then if something ever goes wrong with my car,I always end up fixing it and a mod gets done somehow..it just gets better and it's still cheaper than financing a car,once you get it squared away, it will be a great car. I've driven my car from boston to san diego and back,just went to boston and back down to norfolk,....going to texas and back soon,my car is in fairly decnt shape,ofcourse now it has a new engine,brakes,suspension(modded),rear end,tires,b&m shifter.....but lets fucos on the subject at hand here...a V8 f-body will treat you as good as you want to treat it...bottom line.

 

I have the same problem with 86 TA (305 TPI), when I pull up to a light the RPM's drop to 500 and it feels like its about to stall. When I try to pull out it makes no power at all until 2000-2500 RPM. Do you guys think a bad fuel pump is causing this?

Thanks,

-Max

 

Fuel problems generally cause a midrange-high rpm lack of power. If you're having trouble right off the line, I would check that the TPS and CTS are both working right. (do a computer scan)

Also, make sure that the timing is set correctly and that the O2 sensor is fairly new. It will make the car run smoother and get better gas mileage. (not really related, but I thought Id throw it in there)


------------------
Mike L.
It ain't pretty.......

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

O2 sensor, I keep forgetting I have a faulty one. I always mean to change it but never get aroudn to it. Anywasy do you think that would solve the bod-down at low RPM's?

BTW With it broken my mpg is around 6-10. Pretty expensive with gas prices like they are

 

Sounds like you guys may be experiencing a plugged catalytic converter. Does the car seem quieter than normal or a little more muffled? Have you replaced the converter in the recent past? Does it rev OK when it is not under load (ie nuetral)? These are all symptoms of a plugged converter. I would try pulling the converter off and give her a spin and see how it runs. I have been duped by the plugged converter deal in the past.....

An idea.............

Good luck.



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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.

 

doubtful! i hope you aren't checking your gas mileage by the gauge.

even my Dad's big block gets 12mpg man..



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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

plugged converters also cause the engine to run hotter, right?

i remember when my knock sensor came off my exhaust manifolds were flame-red at night, i finally figured it out but my cat is burned to hell so i need to replace it..



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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

Sounds like a TPS to Me.

Unplug the TPS connector On the carb and see if the problem goes away.


If it does, Time to replace the TPS.




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 14.82 @ 91.1 (faster than Ed)
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Thanks for all the help,

Well... now it looks like the cat. When I rev my engine in neutral its fine and it only bogs down in drive. While at lights I put it into neutral cause I am afraid that my car's gonna stall. Tomorrow I'm taking the converter off

I was only estimating 6-10 cause I wasted a whole tank of Premium in 5 or 6 days of driving to school and a little bit around town but I think I got more then 1 problem contrubuting to my poor gas mileage

BTW Who makes a reliable cat and approx how much for a replacement?

-Max

 

I had that problem in my '82... Nearly got T-boned pulling out of the gas station one day after getting the car back on the road. Drove around with it like that for a year and had about 5 other close calls. As long as I kept the RPMs up around 1,000 it was ok but anything below that, there was that really bad 1 - 2 second hesitation then the car takes off. The car was looked at by 2 different shops and both said everything looked fine. Obviously, something wasn't fine. Finally ended up just putting the non computer stuff on and haven't looked back since.

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'82 Z28
LG4 305 .030 over, performer intake, holley street avenger 670, xe 256 cam, tes headers, 3 inch single exhaust, spintech muffler, 14 x 3 inch drop base k&n.

 

heh.. the best cat? NO CAT!

if oyu have to smog i've heard alot of good things about Random Technologies..

they advertise that there are no horsepower losses with their cat over a straight pipe and actually some torque GAINS (probably due to slightly more restriction than a straight pipe)

i believe their cats about about 250ish?

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

250ish? I am going to have to pass. I guess I just drive around with no cat until I get a job again.

BTW Would having a plugged cat affect smog in NJ?

-Max

 

If you have to pass emissions, I would say the Random Tech cats have a decent reputation for giving good power and keep you passing emissions still.

If you don't have to pass emissions, you can just gutt your current cat. Gutting is easy as hell. Just unbolt the intermediate pipe from the back of the cat, stick a big prybar or stick of some kind in it, and pound away with a hammer on the end of the bar or stick until all of the honeycomb crap is broken up and off the housing of the cat. Than turn the car on and rev it up a little to blow all of the loose crap out. Remount the intermediate pipe, sweep up the honeycomb matrix pieces, and whalaahhh..... instant high flow converter .

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.

 

Well I'm gonna gut the cat for 2 reasons
One from what you guys are saying is that it can get all burnt up. the guy that had it before me was running it with a stage 2 chip and I think that that made the engine run hotter then normal
Two I like the way it make the exhaust sound... more lumpy with the cam. I don't even give a rat's *** about emissions. My 84 Trans Am had a gutted cat and a rich condition and still passed the PA tests! lol

As for the fuel pump, I actually helped the guy put it on about 6 months before he was gonna sell it to my G/F.

What is the TPS connector and where is it on the carb? Ah never mind I answered my own question.

How about the CTS? What's that?

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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor

 

The CST is the computer controled sensor that turns on the cooling fans at the stock temp. Mine kicks on at 228* or so. I really dont think that the CTS will have anything to do with the car having a reving problem. I needed to replace mine a few days ago and had no reving problems at all. I would agree with Matt gut the cat I bet that is the problem cause I had a dead fuel pump not too long ago and only had problems in mid range RPM's. You can find cats for cheaper than 250 I have a catco cat on my car and passed emissions in NC and they are strict with theirs. I paid 130 to have it installed but I know that is going to variy depending on the shop. Good luck keep us informed.

 

Well, I haven't gotten around to checkin the tps but maybe the drive home tonght? I tried was EvilCartman was doing - keeping it up around 1000 RPM- that really did the trick. I don't think that my G/F would like to keep doing that though. It's gotta get fixed. I'm gonna gut the cat this weekend when I fix some stuff w/ the breaks and if I can find the part at a shop, the center link.

------------------
You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!
1984 L69 305HO WS6 Firebird Trans Am
Current Mods[*] 2 1/2" Flowmaster cat back[*] gutted cat[*] 160 thermostat[*] all around polyurethane bushing kit from Energy Suspension[*] 3.73 Disk rear
Mods to come![*] 350 .30" SB [*] Comp Cam[*] Edelbrock RPM Proformer Package [*] 3.73 Posi Disk rear[*] Edelbrock TES headders - Yeah I like em![*] 150 lb shot Edelbrock Nitrous System[*] Edelbrock Aluminnum Signeture Series Valve covers.[*] 140 amp GM High Proformance Altnator

 

I really don't think it's the cat guys... usually plugged cats make an RPM wall, at about 4500 RPM that can't be surpassed. Here is what I would check:

#1 Timing

#2 O2 sensor

#3 I don't know jack **** about carbs, but maybe it needs to be adjusted/fixed. An accelerator pump perhaps? Enrichment solenoid? TPS?

I'll bet your answer lies in those above three somewhere.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

I think that's about the tenth time someone told me it might be the accelerator pump. I guess the only way to find out if that's the problem is to try the timing, gut the cat, and check the o2 sensor.

Here's a little more help.

I haven't gotten the chance to throw the computer tester up on this badboy but I have been -Me not my G/F thank GOD!- having problems with the check engine lite comming on and when it does the car shifts like poop. Warm gushy poop to be persice. It just jumps around all mucky like and the car just doesn't have anything. Feels like I got into a new Mustang GT. :P But serously dose anyone think that it could be related? I'm gonna get to the tranny maybe next weekend? Just some preventive mantainance ie filter change good drain/refill.

 

Nothing to really say here. Just wanted my first flaming bowtie!

 

you may want to post this in the carb section. it sounds to me like a carb problem. If the car drives fine, but only falls on it's *** when you get on it, it maybe the secondaries not opening. This used to happen in my 87.. the choke was FUBAR, and was keepin the secondaries closed.. I don't think it's a clogged cat, sounds like carb problems to me.


Anthony

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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.

Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.

 

This may seem stupid, but is the air cleaner lid flipped over? if it is, turn it over. I was having the same problems as you until i got an open element breather..sometimes it's the little things, like a choking carb from zero air flow........

 

How does the car react after the bog? A lot of times with the q-jet the secondaries will open too quickly causing a lean condition momentarily, then pull hard afterwards.

 

Even if it isn't the cat, people, he has nothing to lose by gutting it and a small HP gain if he does even if it doesn't fix his problem. Plus the exhaust will sound better. It is the fundamental rule of doing the most simple, cheapest thing first when chasing down a problem and this step is FREE!!

I don't know much about carbetudors so I am not much help with them but it could very well be a carb problem. The carb is pretty much the decision maker for a carbed engine on how it is going to run.

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.

 

Two questions:
1. Is it an LG4?
2. Does it only happen when it's cold, or does it happen at all temperatures?

------------------
1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - Rebuilt 355 S/D TPI L98, Crane 2032 CompuCam, Crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator, MSD Blaster coil, custom burned PROM, stock TPI intake, Accel 24# injectors, gutted air box with K&N filters
F41 Suspension Package, 700R4 Tranny, TCI Breakaway torque converter, 3.27 Posi Rear
Hooker Shorty Headers, Catco High-Flow 3" Cat, Flowmaster 3" American Thunder Cat-Back

Best 1/4 Mile Run:
14.137 @ 94.57 MPH

1992 1LE B4C Police Camaro RS - 305 TPI 5-Speed

 

Well I the four barrels are good and it's not the lid. I ran the car with the assembly off. No differance but I wish I could do it all the time. Sounded bad@ss when the secondaries opened up. Vooosh!


As for it being an LG4 I'm not sure. I'll have to look for the rpo's. I have them somewhere with the ones for my Trans Am. I do strongly think that it is an LG4 though. As for the huge pull when the power catches up... unfortunatly it's not there.
EDIT: It was kinda cool and humid last night and it didn't seem to be as bad as when it's just really hot.

[This message has been edited by Dumperbird (edited July 19, 2001).]

 

i used to have an '84 Z (lg4 5m 3.73) it had that electronic q-jet on it with an mc solenoid and other gadgets, we eventually gutted the cat and eliminated the emissions system and through out the ECM on it. you said your ride was carb'd and '88 i'm wondering if you ignition module is taking a **** on you. when i junked the ecm i had to adavnce the hell out of my timing for the car to run good since the computer was unable to this for the electronic dist. i eventually (about a week l8r) went to a salvage yard and grabbed a pre electronic q-jet and vaccum adv. hei dist. for it .
lie they said earlier , get on a scanner or an ociliscope. to find your problem.
and to keep the booker of your back i would insist she drive your car (make her think you care for her safety) and apologize often, or help her out with cost.
believe me between us me and my girlfriend have my 87' our '91 t/a her '94 Z and her sisters which used to be mine '88 formula.


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87GTA ,10.5:1,4-bolt 355,afr 190's, super ram ,stock poerted base,58mmTB,24 lb FMS inj. ed wright chip, .510/230 (nr) 1&5/8 hooker shorty's, flow master single 3", 2800 ameri-torque non lk-up, 3.73. best to date with stk 48mm tb and lack of traction in 1st gear netted me a 12.9 @110mph /91 TA daily driver LB9 A4 2.73,
sitting in the garage : 26-11.5-16 et streets, sphon LCA's &rlb's, SFC's, b&m mega shifter....hope to install before the next century!!!

 

DO NOT GUT THE CAT!! I bought my car and drove it for a year until i got my emmisions notice. When i failed, I figured this may have been done by the volume of the exhaust, so i replaced it with a Walker hi-flow. After that i had no problems passing emmisions, and the car ran smoother, idled better, sounded better, and picked up .5 sec and 5mph at the track. I have heard from some that the 305 likes backpressure which may explain what happened to me. It is worth the money to go for a new cat!
later

 

Well I'm gunna gut the cat to see if it ends the pick-up prob, if it ain't broke... I'm gonna see where this advice gets me tomorrow and I'll post the newest revelations abou it on Monday maybe Sunday, If she lets me near a computer!

 

Just a little more info on what was going on with mine... Rebuilt the carb at the same time as rebuilding the motor and for one day after everthing was broken in, it ran absolutely perfect until the next day after getting it back from the smog shop. I asked them wtf they did to my car and they couldn't fix it The computer was fine and the carburetor was in perfect condition. I had a brand new exhaust system put on, hesitation still there. Another accelerator pump, hesitation still there. O2 sensor and countless other temp sensors, hesitation still there. EGR valve was in perfect working order. Vacuum leaks fixed, still not running right. The car ran fine until it got warmed up. After that, the hotter it got, the worse the hesitation was. Bumped up the timing, no change. None of the shops I took it to could figure out what was going on. So I put in a vacuum advanced distributor and non-computer q-jet out of a truck and the car ran perfect again. That's just a bit of background on what I've been through. If you figure out what the problem was, I wanna know LOL.

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'82 Z28
LG4 305 .030 over, performer intake, holley street avenger 670, xe 256 cam, tes headers, 3 inch single exhaust, spintech muffler, 14 x 3 inch drop base k&n.

 

3 ideas.....1. Accelerator pump. 2. if it only does it when cold, misadjusted choke 3. Secondaries opening too quick. This is why the q-jet is called the quadra-bog. Does it happen when you stomp it or even at light throttle. You can tighten up the secondaries so they don't open so soon...


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85 Berlinetta Iroc exterior NOW 454 powered, 4.10 gears, 275/60/15 Hoosier Quicktimes and a PILE of other goodies..........YES, it's street driven!

check it out at http://www.bsronline.net/members/rob/rob_specs.html

 

Well I didn't get to the car this weekend cause my best friend had a baby! Very cute. But back to the subject at hand... The carb has been adjusted to the specs on the car and th ebog is really only noticable under WOT after a full stop. I hope that I don't have the same problem that Evil had! I would deffinatly go old school tech!

 

My 1987 Trans Am with the LG4 does the same thing. Almost everytime i come to a stop there is a slight hesitation. But everyonce in a while it really bogs down where I think its going to die. I changed all the spark plugs, PVC valve, Air cleaner. SO whats next to change?