ping Drkhrse89
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 720
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
The 1/2" pipe caps go on the end of the AIR tubes coming from the exhaust manifolds. There is a big black hose that goes behind the engine connecting the 2 of them cap those or return those and get 1/4" pipe threads and pull off the AIR tubes and cap the open holes. You will need 8 of them they are about $1 or so a piece at local hardware store. Madmax has had them on his eninge for about 2 years (they will be brass) and there have been no problem with them melting. Hope this helps any Q's you can email me at EJSL1311@CS.Com. Good luck.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Yeah. You gotta decide if you want to remove the AIR pipes from the manifolds themselves (really cleans it up underhood and gives you A LOT of room for other things like plugs) or just cap off the AIR pipes where the check valves mount(still takes up space and looks poopy).
I watched Drkhrse89 do his (brass plugs in the manifolds) at my house and they were a fair amount of work but not all that bad. The results are absolutely worth it though. The engine bay looks so much more open and not cluttered and the room that he now has for doing other things like plug changes is amazing
. Not to mention the additional airflow over the engine produced by removing the entire AIR system will help it run cooler (little bit anyways) and it lightens up the car a bit!!
.
If you do the full AIR system removal (ie install brass plugs in the manifolds and pump removal) you will still have to retain the pipe that goes down to the catalytic converter as it is a pain to remove (not impossible but would require a lot of bending and cursing). The top of the pipe comes up near the rear of the passenger side rocker cover and is silver in color. It will have a check valve on the end of it and for that pipe you will need one of those 1/2" pipe caps. Drkhrse89 left his converter pipe in. It really doesn't get in the way much and isn't really in plain view.
If you don't have underhood inspections and/or emissions testing in your area, than this is a must - especially if you do a lot of messing around under the hood (could use the extra room).
Good Luck.....
------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Hotchkis STB.
Coming Soon!!: Fourth gen 3.42:1 rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard, '99 Camaro seats.
I watched Drkhrse89 do his (brass plugs in the manifolds) at my house and they were a fair amount of work but not all that bad. The results are absolutely worth it though. The engine bay looks so much more open and not cluttered and the room that he now has for doing other things like plug changes is amazing
. Not to mention the additional airflow over the engine produced by removing the entire AIR system will help it run cooler (little bit anyways) and it lightens up the car a bit!!
.If you do the full AIR system removal (ie install brass plugs in the manifolds and pump removal) you will still have to retain the pipe that goes down to the catalytic converter as it is a pain to remove (not impossible but would require a lot of bending and cursing). The top of the pipe comes up near the rear of the passenger side rocker cover and is silver in color. It will have a check valve on the end of it and for that pipe you will need one of those 1/2" pipe caps. Drkhrse89 left his converter pipe in. It really doesn't get in the way much and isn't really in plain view.
If you don't have underhood inspections and/or emissions testing in your area, than this is a must - especially if you do a lot of messing around under the hood (could use the extra room).
Good Luck.....

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, BBK 52mm TB, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, CAI w/K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Alum. Driveshaft, Hotchkis STB.
Coming Soon!!: Fourth gen 3.42:1 rear, Spohn LCAs and Panhard, '99 Camaro seats.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 720
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Yea what Matt said it really makes the engine bay nice and not a whole lot of work involved just a little bit of time thats all. Good luck and look at the other post.
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Colin 86&87 IROC-Z
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