Replacing Fuel Pump
#1
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Replacing Fuel Pump
I'm having to replace the fuel pump in my '92 3.1L Camaro. Problem is I don't have the place or real facilities to drop the tank. I've been told by some that there is an existing hatch underneath the carpet. But from searching thru the forum history it seems that noone else has seen this. I'm not against cutting a hole under the carpet, some say they've done it but don't say where to cut. Is the pump/sender in the center of the tank? And how much room is between the floor and top of tank and fuel lines and wires?
Any help would be appreciated,
CADmanJosh
Any help would be appreciated,
CADmanJosh
#2
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
At one time, someone mentioned cutting into the floor infer the carpet to get to the fuel pump, but im not sure how well it would. The sending unit is a big twisted l shape, that can only come out one way, and i doubt there would be whole lot of room to play with it.
I just finished installing a new fuel pump on my IROC, i did it the long way. IT took me about 8 hours over two days to do it ( i took my time and went very carefully). Not sure if that helps any or not, but good luck anyways...
Eric
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My 1986 Z28
GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles!
You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look
R.I.P Dale Earnhardt
I just finished installing a new fuel pump on my IROC, i did it the long way. IT took me about 8 hours over two days to do it ( i took my time and went very carefully). Not sure if that helps any or not, but good luck anyways...
Eric
------------------
My 1986 Z28
GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles!
You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look
R.I.P Dale Earnhardt
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
There is no hatch. You'd have to make it.
There's no more than 2" of clearance there to the tank, and a good bit less than that to the lines. A rather risky business IMHO. It makes a whole lot more sense to do it the right way, since you would stand to cost yourself a great deal more than what you might "save".
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
There's no more than 2" of clearance there to the tank, and a good bit less than that to the lines. A rather risky business IMHO. It makes a whole lot more sense to do it the right way, since you would stand to cost yourself a great deal more than what you might "save".
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Here's what I consider the right and easiest way to do it. Jack up the rear of the car and put jackstands under the frame in the back. Let the differential hang down so you can remove the springs. Next remove the panhard rod and lower shock bolts. This should allow the whole differential to drop down quite a bit. Now just remove the gas tank heat shields and straps and guide it out. Replace the pump and o-ring gasket and reinstall.
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Riccioli Performance Motorworks
--RPM Racing--
-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??
------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks
--RPM Racing--
-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, AFR 190 heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??
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