After searching for a little bit I couldn't find anything that regards the problem I'm having. I bought this Camaro with smashed windows and a slashed tire was also told it might need a fuel pump because it died when they were starting it once a week when it was in storage. Well I go pick it up throw a battery in it and a few cranks and it started righ up and ran fine even drove it into my yard. Started for the next 2 days it was fine. Started the next time it runs for a second and falls on it's face and when you start it again it does the same or just won't start. What I noticed is that the fuel pump primes fine but after it starts i can't hear it go on and when it stalls i can hear it kick on and prime again. So I figure the pumps not running when the motor is so it's not getting enough fuel. Any suggestions before I go outside take down the rear and exhaust and drop the tank. What's killing me is that I had it running fine even after the guy said it had a bad pump. Thanks

 

the pump may not be the problem, usually if a pump dies, it dies, bottom line. since its pumping up to pressure when u turn the key, im guessing that its another problem. it could be a number of things, is there any codes thrown from the ecm? if so that may determine your problem, crappy gas can cause that to happen, mmm your TBI may not be regulating correctly, may need new injector clips. also check your plugs and ignition system (distrib, wires , etc)

 

I did the paper clip in the diagnostics port thing but it won't flash the ses light only stays lit. Another thing I was thinking of maybe when it was vandalized someone put something in the tank and when i got it all the stuff settled thats why it ran for few days but now it's mixed up and won't work. Guess I'm just gonna go drop the tank for fun. Anymore help would be great thanks

 

I'd say you ECM is fried, pump won't prime if it is. Pump is probably OK, just junk clogging the injectors/carb. Jumper 12 volts to the ALDL "G" terminal (lower left first pin) that will power the fuel pump, you'll need to this anyway to drain the tank to clean it out. Easy pump test, connect pressure gauge if it's TPI, or disconnect pressure line near steering box, and check for pressure/flow when you power the pump.

Good Luck, let's us know, please.

 

Ok here we go I been messing around with this thing all day. Fuel pump primes so that would mean the ECM is still good. So i took my test light hooked it to the battery and put it to "g" in the ALDL got nothing, so I traced it all the way back to behind the rear seats. Opened up the harness and hit the purple wire with the tester it lit the bulb up but not the pump. I tried the other 2 wires there also grey and black and they lit the bulb as well just no fuel pump running. I took the fuel filter out that i put in yesterday and hooked in a hose and tryin to drain the tank by just priming it, it has flow but i have no pressure gauge to see how many pounds it's putting out. One of my friends is trying to tell me a pump has two stages a primer and a run but that doesn't sound right to me, another words he's trying to tell me it will prime but won't pump while the car is running for those few seconds. I'm ruling out spark because the car does run for a few seconds. Could it be a MAP sensor or the IAC? I seem to be leaning towards fuel though I dunno. Still need help guys thanks

 

Well I changed the fuel pump and buttoned everything up today and it still doing same thing. Any ideas? Thinking MAP sensor or IAC, I dunno, ran good before dunno what happened. Please help!!!

 

Your model doesn't use a fuel pump 2-speed module.

The fact that the SES light doesn't blink a code 12 is disturbing.

You suspect no pumping after car starts, so you should confirm this before going on to somethin else.

Never use a test light as a jumper wire. It's used to "test" for power not supply it. Use a fused source to supply power with a jumper wire.

Connect the ground clip of your test light to body ground close by to the fuel pump relay, poke the wire at terminal "A" of the fuel pump relay and monitor throughout the start/run process.
The test light should come on in the key run position for a couple of seconds.
As long as the engine is operating the test light should stay on.
Determine if there's a delay between the time the engine dies, and the test light going off. If it goes off at the same time the engine dies, I again say it the ECM.

Remove the fuel pump relay, connect a jumper wire to 12 volts from the "hot" in run ignition switch position from the fuse box, (turn key to run and probe with test light until it lights then, connect jumper wire to that fuse) to the "A" terminal of the fuel pump relay connector. Now the pump will stay on as long as the key is in run position.
Please post results.

 

Try to start it with your foot on the gas. If it starts and stays running while your foot is on the gas but dies after you lift your foot, then I would guess IAC.

 

OK the test light goes on when it primes then shuts off after that, then I crank it, it goes on and while running for a few seconds it stays on. When it stalls the light stays on becuase the pump reprimes and then goes off until I crank it again. I figured since that worked I don't really need to hotwire it to make the pump run constantly. Now could I have a fuel pressure problem maybe a pressure leak in the return line, I dunno. Thanks for all your help guys. Oh and as for when I hit the gas to try to make it stay alive it just makes it cut out sooner, and if i feather it while starting it just makes the car hiccup.

 

ECM is OK, now beg, borrow, or steal a gauge, and check your Fuel psi.
One thing at a time, you'll get there.

Also, check injector resistance (tyically less than 1 amp to hold open 12 - 18ohms depends on voltage i.e. 12volts/12ohms=1amp.) across pins, and from pin to metal part of body, for shorts.

Come back.

 

Ok I'm gonna go try this now and will report back, btw how much fuel pressure is normal so I know what I'm looking at. Thanks

 

used my old R12 a/c guages was told they do the same thing and I got 15psi at the back on the plenum.

 

Yep you are right, you can use the old R12 A/C gauge to check fuel pressure with, the same fitting also screws right onto the schrader valve. Works like a champ, I have compared it to store bought pressure gauges and they read identical. Larry.

 

30 - 42psi

 

36-38psi (idle) on the fuel rail, is what I think you meant.

 

Yea off the schrader valve located behind the the plenum sorry wasn't clear on it. It was only giving 15psi looked liked it wanted to keeping going up but it stalled before it could build higher. We looking at a bad pressure regulator possibly? I'm losing pressure somewhere, still gotta check my injectors just have to find my meter somewhere in my garage. Does that help any?

 

Ignore my replies (can't delete them myself) on PSI, don't see type engine you have in the Camaro, if it's the 91' with V6 I don't have any specs.

 

3.1 V6 i'd figure it has to have a decent amount of pressure because it's Multiport FI

 

My 1999 S-10 4.3LV6 is 60psi at idle.

1. Could build higher, It should peak instantly.

2. bad pressure regulator possibly? If the diaphram is leaking you'll have fuel in the vacuum line flowing into the plenum. Could be a weak spring.

3. what was the pressure when the fuel pump primes? Engine off, jumper the fuel pump at the ALDL so you can see full pressure (no vacuum.) After power off does it hold, or lose pressure, and how fast.

check my injectors ... does it help? Until you get it to stay on no.