Does anyone know where one of these can be bought? Mine broke today when I passed up someone who was going 10 miles an hour (I was late for work already) . I punched it and as soon as I did, I smelled antifreeze and I was leaving a trail of steam behind my car. That was a lousy way to start the day but at least I was right by my work. For now I have bypassed the heater core. But I'll need a (preferably metal) heater control valve when things cool off.

 

older cars didn't need that valve to bypass the heater when the heater wasn't on. Why should you? All those lines take up too much space anyway.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

To be installed eventually far far far into the future: Yours if the price is right and I don't have to ship :
Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248), Catco 3" cat, and injector spacer.

Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz

 

I mean when the weather cools off (gets cold) I'll need to put a hcv on there so I don't freeze my buns off.

 

Any good parts store should be able to come up with a metal one instead of a plastic one. I know I've looked them up before, it will just take a little bit of effort.

 

Just run your heater hoses right from the front of the engine to the heater core; skip that valve entirely. Yeah, coolant will flow thru your heater core all year round, but, like Tas said, who needs the extra junk?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

I have the hoses at short lengths where the valve hides half way under the air cleaner so it really isn't obtrusive.

Many thanks guys.