Recently I have been reading how Mobil 1 can reduce the blue puff(Chevy salute) of smoke to almost nothing. If this is true to I use the syntetic oil? Can I just switch over at my next oil change? My car is headed to 200,000 miles by September with the original LG4 and original 700rt4 in it. Will the Mobil 1 do damage or should I stay with the original 10 W 30?

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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

It only eliminates the 'trademark' because synthetic oil burns clear (or nearly invisible). If your car is headed to 200K and has been on dino juice it's whole life (and not driven like a baby) I'd stick with the normal stuff...

What could happen is, since the synthtic is thinner and moves around easier, it'll get past seals easier, creating leaks where there previously were none, and burning oil where it was never burnt before.

The only way to know for sure, is to monitor oil consumption now, and then at the next oil change use Mobil 1 synthetic and monitor the oil consumption. If it stays the same, or within reasonable amounts, then heck, stick with it. Otherwise just go back to dino juice. (or whatever)

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Don't waste your money. On a motor that old it'll probably just give you oil leaks.

That Chevy Salute at startup is a symptom of failing valve seals, and no oil will fix that. I would recommend that you switch to a heavier oil tho, regular 20W50 would be best.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

Thanks Jester. I will switch to the heavier oil. What about winter time? Same grade? Any particular brand you reccomend?

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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

I personally swear by Castrol. Valvoline, Halvoline, and Quaker Stare are all good. Just stay away from Pennzoil..that stuff is crap.

I also say, especially on a motor that old, to run 20W50 all year. Opinions will vary greatly there, some people will say run 10W30 in winter, 20W50 in summer..but I'm not one of them.


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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

Yeah Penzoil is the stuff they put in at the 15 min oil change spots. I do my own oil in the summer so I don't have to deal with those kid grease money's. Currently I have 10 w 30 in but I need a oil change now so now is the time. I have no idea how my engine got to 200,000 but I stay on top of my oil changes and she run like a top. I see the oil as the same as the blood in your body. Bad blood and you DIE! Thanks




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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

My stock 305 survived well past 250,000, with lots of severe 6500RPM abuse, and was still going fairly strong when I pulled it. I used nothing but Castrol 20W50 in it.

Take care of them and these things last forever.

 

I heard that the 305 is the true beast of the Chevy engines. Seems these stock 305's don't take as much racing beating and tend to last a long time. I love telling and showing people this 305 just because it is at 200,000. No one ever believes me. I will not change to the 305 until this one dies. Then we have the surgery. I am buying 20 w 50 tomorrow. Thanks for the good advice. Maybe this change will get me another 75,000 miles. I would love to write Chevy at that point. In fact what is the most milage you have heard of in a stock 305 or 350?

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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

Actually, I have heard Quaker State is the oil to stay away from, something about leaving deposits in your heads.

 

Seeing as the two people who recommended 20w50 all year round live in florida, I will add this piece of advice to anyone on the northern half of the USA... 10w40 in the winter, 20w50 for the summer... most people will tell you that 20w50 is too thick, but you will be thankful on the hottest days of summer when it is needed... it was 99 degrees here yesterday w/heat index of 119.. went up the steapest hill in town after an hour of highway driving and it didn't go over 170...

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player
Player accessories: fuzzy dice, eight-ball Shift ****
Check out my ride here

Quote from my sister: "It sounds like a boat"

 

How many times are we gonna start this debate??

Don't agrue with idiots, they will just bring you down to their level and beat you with experince

 

quaker state and pennzoil are the same oil. look on the back of the Q.S. bottle and you will see its made by pennzoil. if your near 200k miles, i wouldnt go to synthetic, just stick with dino till you get a new engine.



[This message has been edited by u r sofa king we tah did (edited August 10, 2001).]

 

Jester,

Save some vacation for next February. Throw your skis in the back and drive up to see me. We'll head off to the lake and park your 20W50 out in the -35°F (NOT wind-chill) and try to start it in the morning.

(Just jerkin' yer chain a little, dude!) I know it doesn't often get much below freezing there, and not for long. But 70° colder than freezing makes a pretty big difference. On the other side of the coin, you don't get to watch bleached-white fat chicks in bikinis for three months of the year.

I used to use 20W50 Pennzoil GT religiously in the summer, and nothing less than 10W30 in the winter. I had excellent results with them. About 1984 the synthetics were just becoming available in industry, and I couldn't wait to get some in my crankcase. I haven't looked back since then. Then again, I used to use Canadien 7001 composite/wood sticks. I swore I'd never get used to aluminum when it first came out. Then I thought I'd hate the carbon/graphite sticks when they arrived. Now it's all I'll use (but I still can't play hockey for ****). I guess everything changes, and old dogs CAN learn new tricks.

I'll agree that you should probably use the highest viscosity oil you can if you're using mineral oil. Just make certain it will pour and pump at the lowest expected temperature and everything should be fine. Then again, I always allow my engines to warm a bit before loading them, and the pedal never even gets close to the floor until the coolant and oil are at normal temps. If 86NiteRider has 200K miles on an original engine, I'll bet he doesn't do that either.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Yes I most definetly warm my car. Call it the mid west syndrome. I am not planning on driving in the winer anyway so I could go year round with the heavy stuff. At what temp is the 20 w 50 not good to operate in?

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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com