Well if you read some of my past posts I had an overheating problem after changing the head gaskets and it turned out that the timing was too retarded (figureatively and literally).
The only problem is that it was retarded when I set it to the factory's 6 BTDC on the factory tab. when I figured out that it was retarded I set the timing to around 14-16 BTDC which is where it is at now.
I know this cant be right and the car runs well and responds like it used to before I changed the heads.
I set the timing using the jump A+B diagnostic method. I also tried using the unplug the EST method but when I unplug the EST the engine immediately dies and will not run unless I retard the timing to around 0 on the tab.
could this have happened by somehow misaligning the distributor when I put it back in?? it seems that you can only put it in two ways because otherwise it wont line up with the oil pump shaft.
Well let me know if you guys have any ideas. I think the timing tab could be off also but I never touched it during the head swap.
Thanks

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88 WS6 T/A 305 TPI--
K&N,Air foil,hypertech chip, thermostat+fanswitch
free mods, dynomax catback, urethane motor+trans mounts,
SSM SFCs, Bilsteins
very trick homemade ramair, Accel 300+ ignition system.
Planning: hedman 1-5/8 longtubes, NOS 150 plate, world 305 heads, replace the "peanut"! and other susp. mods.
check it out at:
http://www.geocities.com/transam617

 

The factory timing spec calls for 6 degs btdc with the est wire disconnected. It doesn't make sense that it will only run by retarding the timing. I would try it again and try to get the timing between 6-10 degs btdc for better performance.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

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D&Z Performance
"Putting Power to the Pavement"

 

no one said that my problems make sense, thats why I asked my question here. if I COULD time it to 6 BTDC with the EST disconnected I would but It wont run with the est disconnected.

 

it seems that you can only put it in two ways because otherwise it wont line up with the oil pump shaft.

[/B][/QUOTE]

Hi 88305tpiT/A my only suggestion would
be to set the engine to TDC #1 cyl. and
then put dist. in and if oil pump shaft
does not line up you can turn it yourself
with a long screw driver until it does,
and the dist. should go right in and the
rotor should be pointing to the 5 or 5:30
position, somewhere near that, then you
should be able to unplug est and set
timing.



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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 10 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.

 

it seems so odd that the timing light would read such high advance even if the distributor is off somehow. I guess I just dont have any experience with timing these things.

 

Hmmmmm, how old is the harmonic balancer? If the outer ring is moving around your timing mark is moving around.


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86 406

 

88305PITA - Yes the motor will stumble when the est wire is disconnected. If you have a friend helping you, have him play with the throttle to keep the motor running until it stabilizes. Then check the timing. It may not want to run because once the est is disconnected you lose about 10 degs timing.
Just a question no insult intended,which way are you turning the dist to retard timing?
Counterclock wise for adv, clockwise for retard.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

------------------
D&Z Performance
"Putting Power to the Pavement"

 

I turn the distributor with the timing light going so I can see wether I am advancing or retarding. no offense taken and thanks for the help.

I have no doublt that the harmonic balancer is factory origional but it doesnt look like there is a ring around it, it just looks like the timing mark is on a seemingly solid damper. I didnt know there was a ring that could move -- I will check it out.

also that is a good Idea to have someone else keep it running while I disconnect the est. I am not sure when I will try to time it next but I will post here to let you know how it goes.

James

 

It SHOULD have a hard time running with the timing wire disconnected, but it should get BETTER with more advance, not worse. Let's face it, as sopon as you unplug the timign wire it's yanking out about 10-15* of timing, even at idle. So as you manually advance it it should start o run more "normally".

Don't know what to say other than that.

Stock timing is 6* BTDC (timing wire disconnected) but the engines usually run a lot stronger if you bump it up to about 10* BTDC.

The harmonic balancer "ring" that hi-tech refers to is just the outer part of the balancer onto which is scribed the timing mark. It is not directly connected to the inner part of the balancer. THere is a big thick rubber strip all the way around between the inner part and the outer part, or "ring" if you will. The rubber strip can go bad from old age and other reasons. This allow the outter ring to "slip" relative to the inner one. And you end up with a timing mark that is no longer a true indication of where TDC is. Any balancer that shows signs of slipping or obvious deterioration of this rubber part should be replaced immediately. It's more that just inconvenient for setting timing- it has stopped doing it's job of absorbing vibration and your bearings are being hammered pretty bad.

 

well just to finish up this post I figured it out.
I took my accel 300 ignition off and ran the old ignition routing and presto!!! disconnected est and set to 6 btdc with ease.
I dont think I have any damper movement because the car now feels great (porting works!)
thanks to everyone that helped.
James