my engine seems to have a high (around 1500) and erratic idle. It is almost like a vacuum leak but I can't seem to find any. Could a badly foulded O2 sensors have anything to do with this?

 

I think it might be the IAC now that I think about it, it was dowsed in black dirtly oil(don't ask how, b/c I don't know, it was the previous owner) anyway, how do you clean it am how much does a new one cost? Also I think I will get a new O2 sensor and i know all the plenum gaskets are good b/c I just put them on. could it also be a bad ERG soloniod? what the hell is that thing anyway?

 

A new one would cost ya between $20 - $30.

I think I have a used one laying around, I'll sell it cheap if interested.

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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

A new IAC will cost you 55-60$ actually. To check if the iac is actually broken unscrew the tip with the spring and look at the white plastic retainer under it, if its cracked or totaly broken, The tip has too much travel and you need a new IAC. It could still be broken but this seems the most commom casue of IAC failure. (Me, my parts car, and my friends TA all had this problem, he changed IAC and it idled nice and smooth again)

Hope that helped,
-Max

 

read the below post....

1987 IROC-Z 305 TPI with 5spd

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited August 18, 2001).]

 

did i word something wrong here, i would have expected a whole lot of replies by now. Ok try this, I start the car, it revs to 3000 then comes down to 1000 it starts to die and then it revs way back up and the SES light comes on. I don't think it is a vacuum leak? maybe the IAC, anyway to test the damn thing, what about min. air??

EDIT: could it be the cam that is in the car, it is a K blazer engine and it was TBI, maybe the dur or LSA is toomuch/little. This car needs to be on the road soon.

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited August 18, 2001).]

 

Check the SES light, that will give you your first clue.

 

that was my next question, how do i do that?

 

come on people, i know most of you know how do get the codes from the SES light, I waited and waited but the post just got buried.

 

connect the a and b terminal on the aldl connector (top right 2)and turn key to where your radio can come on but do not turn farther and start the car heard it could cause damange before and look at the light and the first code should be 12 three times then it will go to the next code and flash it 3 times and so on and so on intill it is finished and it will start back on code 12. 1 flash break 2 flashes is code 12, and 3 flashes break 4 flashes would be code 34 and so on and so one

 

I have similar problem, I also removed my IAC for cleaning. I was told to use carburator cleaner which I did. But I notice that the electrical connection was also getting wet from the carburator cleaner. Is this bad? I don't want to install it back then find out that I just fried my ECM because of shorted IAC....

Any suggestions???

 

if you got the connector wet from the carb cleaner and it is dried now it shouldnot cause a problem.

 

i didn't get any codes just the SES light, but i looked at the TPS and who ever put this new one on connected the black with the gray and the gray with the black. after some goofing around and hard wiring a fan(see my other post) now it hunts between 500 and 2500, see it goes up and comes down lineraly and then hunts around 1000-500 for an idle and you can hear it having a hard time finding it, then, i quess when the computer thinks it gonna stall it revs up to 2500 and repeats. I will go conn the black with the blak and the gray with the gray and see what happens.

 

ok here are the results of 3 tests, i still can't get codes....

First, put the wires on according to color, start car, revs to 3000 and stays, give it gas there is a slight lull and then up in rpm it goes and then back down when i let off

Second, discon the TPS, start the car, revs up to 3000 and stays, everything as above

Third, put wires on opposite colors like he has and it goes up to 3000 then down the 1500 down 1000 up to 1500 down 1000 etc etc and then levels off around 1500 +- 150 rpms.
MOST OF ALL IT HAS NO SES LIGHT NOW, but i still down't have a temp reading and the car is getting hot and i rips up one fan off this ac to DC thing i have and a hse fan for the other, bla bla bla, I am gonna try to fix that while i wait for your replys.

EDIT, the CTS between cly 5 and 7 must be blown b/c it pluged it in and the gauge still did not work, so I will get one of those on monday, I would also like to know if i need a TPS and IAC

could it be my TPS and i had to rig up the IAC motor b/c as above the plunger thing on the end had screwed off and i glued it back on and screwed in the shaft to the motor with thred lock and set the height as if it was a new IAC. how much are the TPS and IAC and do you thing it is a good idea to replace them?

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited August 25, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited August 25, 2001).]

 

ummm...it IDELED. yet and stayed there at about 800 rpms. now i know the CTS must be gone b/c the gauge will not work even when i hook it up. I need to get the one between cyl 5 and 7 and I think a new IAC in in order if my rigged one does not work. I am letting the car cool and then

 

i let it cool a little and it hunted and hunted and started to fall rught back in the 800 rpm groove. I am gonna try the CTS, now if i gound out that wire what will happen? will the fans kick on and the gauge max out and the car run real funny?

 

Ok, I just Installed the IAC back so far the Idle seem to be working fine. But the stalling while running is still there and the service check comes on and off ...I also replaced the MAP but the problem did not go away...What should I replace next O2 sensor or temperature coolant sensor?

 

Befor I go any further...my car was running fine but after changing my oil and coolant my car began having this problem. Could have this cause the problem???

 

before you start replaceing something check your codes. if the light came on once it has a code stored in there so see what it is and it might tell you whats wronge.

 

that 850 thing was a fluk? but after some fooling around and some serious vacuum leak hunting i fixed it, it turns out that hte IAC was still dirty and there was a small vacuum leak in the runners, fixed both that and now i get a real smooth and constant 1400rpm idle, how can i reduce this idle and which sensor controls the Coolent temp reading for the comp and which one controls the oil pres for the gauge. The car is finnaly starting to come together. also, how do you blead the cluch without braking it, i followed the manual and broke it? the plastic housing broke and everything fell out(this happened twice)(130 shot to hell). I got a new one and want to know how do this? maybe just jack up the front and leave the slave cylinder mounted so it won't brake

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: SzkiRM125
F-bodies : The last with-standing defense against the Invasion.