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Separating connecting rods and pistons

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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 08:00 PM
  #1  
astoria18's Avatar
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From: San Diego
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Separating connecting rods and pistons

How do I remove the connecting rod from each piston?
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Old Jun 5, 2005 | 08:30 PM
  #2  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
The pins are pressed into the top end of the rod, and to remove they need to be pressed out.
It has to be done with a press. There are different types of presses, some trash the piston when they're pressed out. If you plan on re using your piston(s) ask to be sure the shop has the right type of press.
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 05:07 AM
  #3  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
why do you want to remove the pistons? you may also find snap rings or spiral locks if they're aftermarket pistons.
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 06:51 PM
  #4  
astoria18's Avatar
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From: San Diego
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
I just got a Summit rebuild kit for my LT1, and I am planning to use the stock connecting rods with the new pistons. Would a machine shop be the place to go to get this done?
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 07:33 PM
  #5  
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From: Weyauwega, WI
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: none
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Axle/Gears: GT4, 3:73s
i had a machine shop do it to mine rods for 30 bucks, they had to heat mine up to press out the wrist pin
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 07:49 PM
  #6  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
As a rule, stock rods should be resized on the bottom as a step in the rebuild process. The shop I work with charged $100 for that (IIRC). And new ARP bolts are always recommended as well. When you add that and the cost of pressing the old pistons off and the new ones on, it starts looking like a new set of bushed rods are a better solution.
Of course, money can be saved by simply re using your old rods -as is- but for even mild performance rebuilds new bolts and a big end resize are strongly suggested by the guys who have experience with those sort of things.
But perhaps the PM rods used for the LT1s might be different too.
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 08:35 PM
  #7  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Streetiron85
As a rule, stock rods should be resized on the bottom as a step in the rebuild process. The shop I work with charged $100 for that (IIRC). And new ARP bolts are always recommended as well. When you add that and the cost of pressing the old pistons off and the new ones on, it starts looking like a new set of bushed rods are a better solution.
Of course, money can be saved by simply re using your old rods -as is- but for even mild performance rebuilds new bolts and a big end resize are strongly suggested by the guys who have experience with those sort of things.
But perhaps the PM rods used for the LT1s might be different too.
I agree a 100%. I even have tractor/forklift/etc rods checked and resized...don't need no oval holes spinning around.
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Old Jun 12, 2005 | 01:41 PM
  #8  
astoria18's Avatar
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From: San Diego
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Alrighty, thanks for the help!
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