I have a 305 LG4 and just got a set of Dynomax Cerama-coat headers and was wondering if the headers will have to be drilled for the smog pump connections. Is there another way to do this? Could I reroute the smog pipes to the Y-pipe?

Thanks,
Matt

 

i think you'd need to get headers made for the pump connections or you'll mess up the coating, and the header is too thin to tap for the connection anyway, you'd need a fitting welded on it. if you don't have e check i'd eliminate the pump.

------------------
ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

All I need to pass is a sniffer. Don't have to pass a visual. Could the car still pass with out the AIR pump? And also, if I remove the air pump do I need to pull the cat too?

Thanks,
Matt

 

If you only have to pass the sniffer than the AIR pump can be gone. Its also a good idea to take off the cat when you take out the AIR system because it makes it easier for the cat to get clogged. What I did was put flanges on my cat and a 3" pipe (I have an aftermarket exhaust, stock pipes are 2.5" I believe) so they could be interchangeed when needed. Ditch the pump, its worthless unless you insist on running a cat. Your already ahead of the game... you won't have to cap the headers.

------------------
"Though I cruise through the valley of Rice I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me."
--Cullan Hooley
-----
1985 IROC-Z w/T-tops, 305 out and 350 L98 TPI engine in, Hooker Super Comp Headers, 3" Hooker Super Comp Cat-Back, Dropped Cat, Rebuilt TH700R4 with Shift kit, 2,800RPM Torque Converter, 3.73 Richmond gears, Auburn differential, Accell SuperCoil, Accell 8mm racing wires, BBK AFPR, Homemade Ram-Air (thanks to askulte), MAF screens removed, Dropped A/C, Dropped A.I.R, TB coolant bypass, Hurst Dual-Gate Shifter, SLP Air Foil, K&N filters, Holley performance fuel pump, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Re-located Spohn Lower Control arms, and more to come.